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Central Wall

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Alice in Banana Land T,S 
All the Nasties T 
Banana Patch T 
Bitchin Chimney T 
Brain Dead S 
Cowboyography T,S 
Divine Wind / All the Nasties T 
Hueco Syndrome S 
Lunacy T 
Lunar Abstract S 
Malice In Bucketland T 
Sea of Holes S 
Uriah's Heap T 
Walking on the Moon T 
Window Pain S 

Central Wall 


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Location: 31.92218, -106.04789 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 20,337
Administrators: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Aug 15, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Malice Area at the Central Wall.
Some areas require a guide.

Description 

The large wall on the west side of North Mountain. Scope it out as you drive into the park. The central wall is the section between Split Boulder and the huge corner with the tree in it.


Getting There 

Park near the warm-up boulder. Walk along rd.


Climbing Season


15 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',3],['5.10',8],['5.11',0],['5.12',1],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Central Wall:
Uriah's Heap   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 350'   
Divine Wind / All the Nasties   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Malice In Bucketland   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 125'   
All the Nasties   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 350'   
Alice in Banana Land   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 120'   
Window Pain   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   
Sea of Holes   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Sport, 2 pitches, 350'   
Hueco Syndrome   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   
Browse More Classics in Central Wall

Featured Route For Central Wall
Susan on her first ever pulls at Hueco.

Malice In Bucketland 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c  TX : Hueco Tanks : ... : Central Wall
Pretty good intro to the Hueco roped routes. Right off the Malice Boulder, jungle gym your way up big deep huecos to the first bolt (about 25' up), then move left and up the rounded arete past seven more bolts, working huecos and good edges. Head up and right at the last bolt to get to the two bolt anchor. There are some pretty good stretches between bolts on this route, so climb carefully!...[more]   Browse More Classics in TX

Comments on Central Wall Add Comment
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By Larry Earley
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 5, 2006

North Mountain is one of the greatest climbing areas in the country for the 5.9/10b climber. The 11s look great too but I can't say first hand. Leaders should be solid at trad since bolt routes are sporty not sport climbs. I have climber over 60 days on North Mountain and loved them all. There is not really a bad climb on the wall. Now that park has restrictions its a ghost town. Most climbers boulder so you can have North Mountain to yourself. Window Pain, Sea of Holes and Indescent Exposure all rate an honest Mega-classic rating.