Central Scrutinizer 5.9 PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | C. Tabor, T. Fyffe 1989 |
| Season: | All |
| Submitted By: | Chris Chaney on Sep 27, 2006 |
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A climber on the upper face of Central Scrutinizer
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Description This route takes a line up the center of the "Trash Compactor" at Pebble Beach. Boulder up to a hard to see pin. Traverse right to an undersized bolt, pull the crux and plug a couple TCUs and lots of small/medium nuts to new anchors. Fantastic route!
Location Pebble Beach between Ju-Ju and Environmental Impact
Protection One pin, one bolt, a couple TCUs and many small/medium nuts
Same cold October day as the pic from the Arrowhea...
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The mixed line of Central Scrutinizer, 5.9. (ca. 2...
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i forget their names...
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Nate Fasel of Illinois Red-pointing his hardest ge...
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| Comments on Central Scrutinizer |
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By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Feb 12, 2007
| Not PG13.... Takes great mid size stoppers, and small cams |
By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 2, 2008
| I agree, not PG13. For a Trad face climb, there's plenty of solid gear, never more than at your feet for any move. Great climb! |
By camhead
From: The Old Northwest
Oct 5, 2009
| one more vote for not PG-13. If there was a bolt at every bomber nut placement, it would be a completely safe sport climb.
Quality all the way, though. |
By Chris Chaney
From: Arvada, Colorado
Apr 13, 2010
| I agree that above the bolt the gear is bomber, however I gave the route a PG13 rating because getting to the bolt the gear is not ideal and you risk a ground fall. Also, the bolt itself is questionable based on its size and age. It would probably hold a hard fall, but I wouldn't bet the farm on it.
I've climbed the route many times and feel very comfortable on it, but I don't want to lull new 5.9 leaders into a false sense of security. |
By Harrison Dreves
From: Nashville, TN
Nov 1, 2010
| I loved the reachy, technical moves on this climb. Combine that with the beautiful stopper placements, and it is one of my favorite routes at the Red. |
By brian k sohn
From: knoxville, tn
Mar 22, 2011
| At some point since I did it last (ten-some odd years ago) someone has put in a pin about 10 feet up. I would be curious to know if someone has fallen on it: it faces right, the direction of the fall one would take if you didn't make the first clip. |
By Dom
Administrator
From: New Brunswick Canada
Dec 14, 2012
rating: 5.9
| I don't understand why so many people feel this is a 4 star route?...I didn't find anything special with this route and am puzzled what so many people found so awesome about it.
Anyways, just thought I'd rant a little, after all it's just rock climbing :-). |
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