Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck)
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 12 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | M. Down, K. Duck, June 1982 |
Page Views: | 763 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Drew Brayshaw on Mar 17, 2009 |
Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Access Issue: Gates may be closed.
Details
Some logging roads have gates that are locked when active logging is occurring. Check in advance with a phone call to Lakeside Pacific, the tenure-holding forest company: 604 793 9340. Keys can generally be picked up from their Chilliwack office during normal business hours, or at the logging camp by prearrangement.
Description
This route takes the broad buttress dropping west from the west-central summit of the Settler. The first half is Class 3 and 4 scrambling, then follow several pitches of mid-5th and finally a series of steeper pitches with sustained 5.7-5.8 climbing.
Location
The start of this route is c. 150m down and left of the starts of Duck a L'orange and Black September at the SW corner of the buttress. There are, however, numerous possible starts, all of which are pretty scrambly at the bottom.
The best descent involves downclimbing 60m north off the west-central summit to the col with the north summit, then downclimbing the 3rd class ramps of the standard route to talus below the west face.
The best descent involves downclimbing 60m north off the west-central summit to the col with the north summit, then downclimbing the 3rd class ramps of the standard route to talus below the west face.
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