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 ADVANCED
The Old Settler
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Black September T 
Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) T 
Complete Northwest Ridge T 
Contact Zone, The T 
Duck a L'Orange T 
East Buttress of the South Peak T 
Mars Western T 
South to North Traverse T 
Standard Route T 
Totally Spurious T 
Watchman's (Northeast) Ridge T 
West Buttress of the South Peak T 
West Couloir T 
West Face of the North Peak T 

Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1200', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: M. Down, K. Duck, June 1982
Season: summer-fall
Page Views: 89
Submitted By: Dru on Mar 17, 2009

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Description 

This route takes the broad buttress dropping west from the west-central summit of the Settler. The first half is Class 3 and 4 scrambling, then follow several pitches of mid-5th and finally a series of steeper pitches with sustained 5.7-5.8 climbing.


Location 

The start of this route is c. 150m down and left of the starts of Duck a L'orange and Black September at the SW corner of the buttress. There are, however, numerous possible starts, all of which are pretty scrambly at the bottom.

The best descent involves downclimbing 60m north off the west-central summit to the col with the north summit, then downclimbing the 3rd class ramps of the standard route to talus below the west face.


Protection 

Although the first ascent reported long runouts and difficulty in finding pro placements, this was before the regular use of cams in alpine climbing. Today, a modern rack with an emphasis on finger to hand-sized pro suffices.



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