Central Mowich Face  AI3-4 Steep Snow

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Type:  Ice, Snow, Alpine, 9200 feet, Grade IV Consensus:  AI3-4 [details] FA:  Dee Molenaar, Gene Prater, Jim Wickwire, and Dick Pargeter Season:  May, June Submitted By:  Jeremy Park on Mar 20, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

There are two variations. The first and original one is a Grade III and cuts left at 12500 to hit an hour glass of snow,ice, and rock. This gains a snow ledge which allows you to get around the rock and gain access to a snow ramp, 40-50 degree, and the top. The second and IMO more fun variation, Grade IV, cuts right instead to hit a couple of ice steps, AI 2-3, and 4-6 pitch of steep snow, 50-60, until you top out on the liberty cap glacier.

Location 

It is located on the northwest face of Rainier above Mowich lake. Approach via the Wonderland trail at Mowich lake to Spray Park. Before the trail starts descending towards the Carbon River take a climbers trail going up the lower part of Ptarmigan Ridge. At 8300 leave the ridge and descend 1000ft to the North Mowich Glacier.
To descend carry over via the Emmons or DC route

Protection 

A couple of screws for the ice steeps and 2-4 pickets.