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Central Gorge

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Alien Wall 
Attila the Hun Wall 
Banana Belt 
Emergency Room 
Faulty Tower 
Great Wall of China 
Health Club 
High Tension Towers 
Mystical Tricks Cliff 
Negress Wall 
Pop Tart Towers 
Pub Wall 
Riverside Island 
Roadside Boulders 
Shaded Wall 
Social Platform 
Solarium 
Warm Up Wall 

Central Gorge  


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Location: 37.51015, -118.57164 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tom Helvie on Jul 21, 2006
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North end of the Central Gorge, Solarium on the ri...

Description 

Definitely the most popular area of the gorge. The Warm Up wall, the Pub, the Social Platform and the Great Wall of China are all here and almost always crowded. These areas feature tons of well traveled 5.8 - 5.11 sport climbs. The climbs highly concentrated so its possible to knock out tons of pitches in a day. There is a toilet located at the base of the approach trail. Please use it.

Getting There 

Park at the Central area and hike down the steep 2nd and 3rd class gully to the dirt road. Be careful not to knock rocks off since the Pub wall is directly below the upper part of the trail.

Climbing Season



Weather station 18.0 miles from here

169 Total Routes

['4 Stars',18],['3 Stars',90],['2 Stars',47],['1 Star',13],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',6],['5.8',8],['5.9',24],['5.10',58],['5.11',46],['5.12',20],['5.13',5],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Central Gorge:
High Seas   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Warm Up Wall
Babushka   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Warm Up Wall
Heart of the Sun   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Great Wall of China
Child of Light   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Great Wall of China
Abitarot   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Pub Wall
Sendero Luminoso   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   Solarium
Show Us Your Tits   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Emergency Room
Light Within   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 70'   Pub Wall
Yellow Peril   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   Great Wall of China
Hardly Wallbanger   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Pub Wall
Love Stinks   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   Banana Belt
James Brown   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Negress Wall
Mandarin Orange   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Great Wall of China
Hungover   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Pub Wall
Expressway   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Social Platform
Wrath of Khan   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   Great Wall of China
Santana   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   Social Platform
From Chocolate to Morphine   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   Faulty Tower
Darshan (aka Ripoff)   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Social Platform
Crybaby   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Faulty Tower
Browse More Classics in Central Gorge

Featured Route For Central Gorge
Unknown climber on Darshan

Darshan (aka Ripoff) 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Social Platform
This ultra-classic rig offers up a sinister menu of thin edging followed by steep resistance climbing through a bulge. When you're shakin' out at the midway point, imagine soloing that shiz like Bachar did......[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Local Information for Central Gorge
Photos of Central Gorge Slideshow Add Photo
Does this qualify as posing? This flagrant biologi...
Does this qualify as posing? This flagrant biologi...
Heading down the Central Gorge approach gully, Owe...
Heading down the Central Gorge approach gully, Owe...
Warm Up Wall
Warm Up Wall
owens
owens
A perfect end to the day in December.  [Thank you ...
A perfect end to the day in December. [Thank you ...

Comments on Central Gorge Add Comment
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By trying hard
From: Sierra East Side
Sep 9, 2010
Descent has been upgraded with incredible stone stairways thanks to some hard working individuals. This speeds the hike up and is much safer. (11.1.12) Some amazing classics lie down in the central. Enterprise, choclate to morphine and expressway just to name a few.