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DescriptionDefinitely the most popular area of the gorge. The Warm Up wall, the Pub, the Social Platform and the Great Wall of China are all here and almost always crowded. These areas feature tons of well traveled 5.8 - 5.11 sport climbs. The climbs highly concentrated so its possible to knock out tons of pitches in a day. There is a toilet located at the base of the approach trail. Please use it. Getting TherePark at the Central area and hike down the steep 2nd and 3rd class gully to the dirt road. Be careful not to knock rocks off since the Pub wall is directly below the upper part of the trail. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Central Gorge:
Babushka 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Warm Up Wall
Child of Light 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Great Wall of China
Heart of the Sun 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Great Wall of China
Sendero Luminoso 5.10b R Sport, 1 pitch, 115 feet Solarium
Show Us Your Tits 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Emergency Room
Light Within 5.10c Sport, 70 feet Pub Wall
Yellow Peril 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 105 feet Great Wall of China
Hardly Wallbanger 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Pub Wall
Perched 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Faulty Tower
Love Stinks 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 115 feet Banana Belt
James Brown 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Negress Wall
Mandarin Orange 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Great Wall of China
Expressway 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Social Platform
Santana 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch, 150 feet Social Platform
From Chocolate to Morphine 5.11d Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet Faulty Tower
Darshan (aka Ripoff) 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Social Platform
Crybaby 5.12c Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Faulty Tower
Featured Route For Central Gorge
Bone Up 5.10d CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Social Platform
Varied Face climbing leads through a roof up high. Sustained and pumpy. Classic....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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