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Central Gorge

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Alien Wall 
Attila the Hun Wall 
Banana Belt 
Emergency Room 
Faulty Tower 
Great Wall of China 
Health Club 
High Tension Towers 
Mystical Tricks Cliff 
Negress Wall 
Pop Tart Towers 
Power Wall 
Pub Wall 
Riverside Island 
Roadside Boulders 
Shaded Wall 
Social Platform 
Solarium 
Warm Up Wall 

Central Gorge  


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Location: 37.51015, -118.57164 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 272,843
Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tom Helvie on Jul 21, 2006
Forecast:
Today

42-63°F
Mon

42-65°F
Tue

44-67°F
Wed

47-71°F
Thu

47-71°F
Fri

50-73°F
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North end of the Central Gorge, Solarium on the ri...

Description 

Definitely the most popular area of the gorge. The Warm Up wall, the Pub, the Social Platform and the Great Wall of China are all here and almost always crowded. These areas feature tons of well traveled 5.8 - 5.11 sport climbs. The climbs highly concentrated so its possible to knock out tons of pitches in a day. There is a toilet located at the base of the approach trail. Please use it.

Getting There 

Park at the Central area and hike down the steep 2nd and 3rd class gully to the dirt road. Be careful not to knock rocks off since the Pub wall is directly below the upper part of the trail.

Climbing Season



Weather station 18.0 miles from here

175 Total Routes

['4 Stars',18],['3 Stars',96],['2 Stars',48],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',6],['5.8',8],['5.9',25],['5.10',60],['5.11',48],['5.12',21],['5.13',5],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Central Gorge:
High Seas   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Warm Up Wall
Babushka   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Warm Up Wall
Crowd Pleaser   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Warm Up Wall
Heart of the Sun   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Great Wall of China
Child of Light   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Great Wall of China
Abitarot   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Pub Wall
Humbly, Mumbly, Jumbly   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Warm Up Wall
Show Us Your Tits   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Emergency Room
Sendero Luminoso   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   Solarium
Hardly Wallbanger   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Pub Wall
Pocket Dance   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 115'   Banana Belt
Light Within   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 70'   Pub Wall
Yellow Peril   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   Great Wall of China
Love Stinks   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   Banana Belt
Hungover   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Pub Wall
Expressway   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Social Platform
James Brown   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Negress Wall
Mandarin Orange   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Great Wall of China
From Chocolate to Morphine   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   Faulty Tower
Darshan (aka Ripoff)   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Social Platform
Browse More Classics in Central Gorge

Featured Route For Central Gorge
Great climb!!! worth doing.

Chillin at the Grill 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Social Platform
Start in the same place as for Orange Peel but follow the bolt line that leads straight up. The easiest ground in the beginning is found by wandering a bit right and then left. Either way leads you to a juggy flake, then a cool and athletic sequence past slopers, sidepulls, gastons, and underclings over a bulge. A pumpy clip then easier ground leads to the anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Central Gorge Slideshow Add Photo
Does this qualify as posing? This flagrant biologi...
Does this qualify as posing? This flagrant biologi...
Heading down the Central Gorge approach gully, Owe...
Heading down the Central Gorge approach gully, Owe...
Warm Up Wall
Warm Up Wall
owens
owens
A perfect end to the day in December.  [Thank you ...
A perfect end to the day in December. [Thank you ...

Comments on Central Gorge Add Comment
Show which comments
By trying hard
From: Sierra East Side
Sep 9, 2010
Descent has been upgraded with incredible stone stairways thanks to some hard working individuals. This speeds the hike up and is much safer. (11.1.12) Some amazing classics lie down in the central. Enterprise, choclate to morphine and expressway just to name a few.
By Joe Freeman
Apr 10, 2015
We were there about the 25th of march 2015. Passing through on spring break. Carried out a bag garbage from the toilet. Mostly used tampons, pads and beer cans. also a bunch of TP and even some other items used as tp. People were throwing it in the bucket. The bucket has a huge crack in the bottom. Per the sign the bucket is for getting water to clean the toilet. Since it is broken it serves no purpose other than to make folks think it is a trash bin. I left the bucket there so people wont put garbage down the toilet but if someone who is in that area could replace it with a functional bucket, with"no garbage in here or in toilet" written on it folks might not leave all that trash in the toilet.
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