Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Central Valley

Select Area...
Bradley Mountain 
Cathole Mountain 
East Peak 
Pinnacle Rock 
Ragged Mountain 
Rattlesnake Mountain 
West Peak 
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Tarrywile Figure 8
A rocky and technical singeltrack challenge. Near Danbury, CT
Blue Loop
Rocky, Technical Singeltrack with some steeps Near Danbury, CT
Thunderdome
Intermediate singletrack with plenty of additional features. Near Middletown, CT
Rockland Preserve
The blue arrow loop through the Singletracks of Rockland. Near Durham, CT
Rockland Preserve Tour
A tour of the singletrack along the Rockland recommended blue arrow route. Near Middletown, CT
Day Pond Shuttle
A feature packed ride ending with a 1 mile+ long descent. Near Moodus, CT
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Central Valley  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.6176, -72.8237 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 313,210
Administrators: Morgan Patterson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Dec 10, 2007
Forecast:
Thu Fri Sat Sun Mon
Clear
62° | 37°
Partly Cloudy
57° | 43°
Chance of Rain
49° | 37°
Partly Cloudy
48° | 30°
Clear
54° | 38°
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Doug demonstrating textbook jamming on Cat Crack

Description 

Climbing in Central CT is climbing Traprock! These gorgeous ridge lines have been climbed for decades albeit, with many access issues along the way. The majority of central CT climbing is on private/water company property and is technically illegal. Do your part to help preserve access while climbing in this area, keep a low profile and be smart about your impact and presence. One of the main concerns with climbers is parking along the roads, so be smart.

Traprock Climbing on Google Maps

Traprock areas:
Firewall
Pinnacle Rock
Main Cliff
Rattlesnake Cliff
Orenaug Park
East Peak
Cathole Mountain
Green Wall
Porcupine Wall
Sleeping Giant
West Rock State Park
The Garden

Getting There 

I-91 splits the middle of CT most climbing areas are quickly found <1hour off this highway.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.3 miles from here

321 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',91],['2 Stars',140],['1 Star',78],['Bomb',5]
['<=5.6',75],['5.7',40],['5.8',43],['5.9',52],['5.10',43],['5.11',45],['5.12',19],['5.13',4],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Central Valley:
Wiessner Slab   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a     Trad, 60'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Ancient Way   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 60'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
First Crack   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Pinnacle Rock : Cracked Wall
Wet Wall   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 100'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Carey Corner   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 100'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Pegasus   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 70'   Cathole Mountain : Main Walls
Wiessner Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 40'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Broadway   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Zambezi Hatchet Head   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Pinnacle Rock : Right Wing Wall
Vector   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 100'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Unnamed 5.9   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport   Firewall : Sport Routes
YMC Route   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 100'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Thor's Hammer   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   East Peak : Merimere Face
Unconquerable Crack   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 80'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Vanishing Point   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 85'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Cat Crack   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   East Peak : Amphitheater
The Entertainer   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Pinnacle Rock : Entertainer Wall
Ragged Edge   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 100'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Subline   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Dol Guldur   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13     Trad, TR, Chipped, 1 pitch, 80'   East Peak : Amphitheater
Browse More Classics in Central Valley

Featured Route For Central Valley
Looking up Pegasus

Pegasus 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  CT : Central Valley : ... : Main Walls
Pegasus is the obvious dihedral in the face of the crag. A roof caps the dihedral near the summit....[more]   Browse More Classics in CT

Photos of Central Valley Slideshow Add Photo
Ragged Mountain
Ragged Mountain
Classic Traprock ascent
Classic Traprock ascent
Me on Cat Crack
Me on Cat Crack

Comments on Central Valley Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 22, 2006
John,

Thanks for adding Ragged Mountain. Hope you will contribute some routes to the Gunks as well!

FYI -- Fritz's name is spelled Wiessner (i before e).
By John Peterson
Feb 27, 2006
After getting chewed out by Sam Streibert for misspelling his name my i and e are permanently reversed.
By Eastvillage
From: New York, NY
Mar 19, 2006
Nice to see Connecticut on this site. However, climbers new to the area should know that most of the classic lines on the major crags SHOULD be led. As mentioned before, CT has a long climbing history and that history was written on the lead. Yes it's strenuous etc., but that's what makes CT climbing so great.
By john gilchrist
From: sLC, utah
May 9, 2006
heck yah Ct climbing is fun worth a trip
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Aug 3, 2012
And apparently, a lot of CT history was unfortunately written on Top Rope too...
By Dmadison
From: CT
May 5, 2013
This is a very vague and general question but I was wondering if a majority of the routes in the Central traprock area require being led on gear? I don't want to show up at a crag and not be able to climb anything considering I don't lead trad (yet).
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
May 7, 2013
HA! Most folks in CT TR the crap outta traprock with an occasional lead.