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Central CT

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Bradley Mountain 
Cathole Mountain 
East Peak 
Pinnacle Mountain 
Ragged Mountain 
Rattlesnake Mountain 
West Peak 

Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Thunderdome
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Central CT 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.6176, -72.8237 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 297,092
Administrators: Morgan Patterson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Dec 10, 2007
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Doug demonstrating textbook jamming on Cat Crack

Description 

Climbing in Central CT is climbing Traprock! These gorgeous ridge lines have been climbed for decades albeit, with many access issues along the way. The majority of central CT climbing is on private/water company property and is technically illegal. Do your part to help preserve access while climbing in this area, keep a low profile and be smart about your impact and presence. One of the main concerns with climbers is parking along the roads, so be smart.

Traprock Climbing on Google Maps

Traprock areas:
Firewall
Pinnacle Mountain
Main Cliff
Rattlesnake Cliff
Orenaug Park
East Peak
Cathole Mountain
Green Wall
Porcupine Wall
Sleeping Giant
West Rock Ridge State Park
The Garden


Getting There 

I-91 splits the middle of CT most climbing areas are quickly found <1hour off this highway.


Climbing Season


317 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',90],['2 Stars',140],['1 Star',76],['Bomb',4]
['<=5.6',75],['5.7',38],['5.8',42],['5.9',52],['5.10',42],['5.11',45],['5.12',19],['5.13',4],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Central CT:
Wiessner Slab   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a     Trad, 60'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Ancient Way   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 60'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Wet Wall   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 100'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Carey Corner   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 100'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Wiessner Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 40'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Zambezi Hatchet Head   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Pinnacle Mountain : Right Wing Wall
Pegasus   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 70'   Cathole Mountain
Broadway   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Vector   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 100'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Unnamed 5.9   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport   Firewall : Sport Routes
Thor's Hammer   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   East Peak : Merimere Face
YMC Route   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 100'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Unconquerable Crack   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 80'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Vanishing Point   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 85'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Aid Crack   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 40'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Cat Crack   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   East Peak : Amphitheater
The Entertainer   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Pinnacle Mountain : Entertainer Wall
Ragged Edge   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 100'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Subline   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Dol Guldur   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13     Trad, TR, Chipped, 1 pitch, 80'   East Peak : Amphitheater
Browse More Classics in Central CT

Featured Route For Central CT
The Entertainer

The Entertainer 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b CT : Central CT : ... : Entertainer Wall
Start on the face a few feet to the right of the small left-facing corner in the middle of the wall. Climb up to first ledge and then head left and up past an old bolt hole. Continue more-or-less straight up to the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in CT

Photos of Central CT Slideshow Add Photo
Ragged Mountain
Ragged Mountain
Classic Traprock ascent
Classic Traprock ascent
Me on Cat Crack
Me on Cat Crack
Comments on Central CT Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 22, 2006

John,

Thanks for adding Ragged Mountain. Hope you will contribute some routes to the Gunks as well!

FYI -- Fritz's name is spelled Wiessner (i before e).

By John Peterson
Feb 27, 2006

After getting chewed out by Sam Streibert for misspelling his name my i and e are permanently reversed.

By Eastvillage
From: New York, NY
Mar 19, 2006

Nice to see Connecticut on this site. However, climbers new to the area should know that most of the classic lines on the major crags SHOULD be led. As mentioned before, CT has a long climbing history and that history was written on the lead. Yes it's strenuous etc., but that's what makes CT climbing so great.

By john gilchrist
From: sLC, utah
May 9, 2006

heck yah Ct climbing is fun worth a trip

By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Aug 3, 2012

And apparently, a lot of CT history was unfortunately written on Top Rope too...

By Dmadison
From: CT
May 5, 2013

This is a very vague and general question but I was wondering if a majority of the routes in the Central traprock area require being led on gear? I don't want to show up at a crag and not be able to climb anything considering I don't lead trad (yet).

By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
May 7, 2013

HA! Most folks in CT TR the crap outta traprock with an occasional lead.