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Central CT Traprock
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Bradley Mountain 
Cathole 
East Peak 
Firewall 
Green Wall 
Nike Base 
Orenaug State Park 
Pinnacle Rock 
Porcupine Wall 
Ragged Mountain (Main Cliff) 
Rattlesnake Cliff 
Sleeping Giant 

Central CT Traprock 


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Lat, Long: 41.6176, -72.8237 Map
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Administrators: CaptainMo, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Dec 10, 2007

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Ragged Mountain

Description 

Climbing in Central CT is climbing Traprock! These gorgeous ridge lines have been climbed for decades with a many access issues; the majority of central CT climbing is on private/water company property and technically illegal. Do your part to help preserve access while climbing in this area.

Traprock Climbing on Google Maps

Traprock areas:
Historical Routes
Pinnacle Rock
Ragged Mountain (Main Cliff)
Rattlesnake Cliff
Orenaug State Park
East Peak
Cathole
Green Wall
Porcupine Wall
Sleeping Giant
The Garden


Also check out John Peterson's Connecticut Traprock Climbing Beta


Getting There 

I-91 splits the middle of CT most climbing areas are quickly found <1hour off this highway.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Central CT Traprock:
Wiessner Slab   5.3     Trad, 60 feet   Ragged Mountain (Main Cliff...
Knight's Move   5.4     Trad, 60 feet   Ragged Mountain (Main Cliff...
Ancient Way   5.4     Trad, 60 feet   Ragged Mountain (Main Cliff...
Wet Wall   5.6     Trad, 100 feet   Ragged Mountain (Main Cliff...
Wiessner's Rib   5.6     , 2 pitches, 120 feet   Sleeping Giant
Carey Corner   5.7     Trad, 100 feet   Ragged Mountain (Main Cliff...
Pegasus   5.8     Trad, TR, 70 feet   Cathole
Wiessner Crack   5.8     Trad, 40 feet   Ragged Mountain (Main Cliff...
Zambezi Hatchet Head   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Pinnacle Rock : Right Wing Wall
Broadway   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Ragged Mountain (Main Cliff...
Vector   5.8+     Trad, 100 feet   Ragged Mountain (Main Cliff...
Bombay   5.8+     Trad, 100 feet   Ragged Mountain (Main Cliff...
Thor's Hammer   5.9     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet   East Peak : Merimere Face
YMC Route   5.9     Trad, 100 feet   Ragged Mountain (Main Cliff...
Unconquerable Crack   5.10a     Trad, 80 feet   Ragged Mountain (Main Cliff...
Aid Crack   5.10     Trad, 40 feet   Ragged Mountain (Main Cliff...
Cat Crack   5.10     Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet   East Peak : Amphitheater
Ragged Edge   5.10+     TR, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Ragged Mountain (Main Cliff...
Subline   5.10d     Trad   Ragged Mountain (Main Cliff...
Dol Guldur   5.11 PG13     Trad, TR, Chipped, 1 pitch, 80 feet   East Peak : Amphitheater
Browse More Classics in Central CT Traprock

Featured Route For Central CT Traprock
Another shot of the climb (Keith Hoek)

Thor's Hammer 5.9  CT : Central CT Traprock : ... : Merimere Face
This route ascends the obvious stairstep dihedral on the Merimere Face. A Connecticut classic. Although obvious from the road below, this is somewhat tricky to find when approaching from the blue trail from the parking lot at the castle. Be sure to look at the landmarks around the climb as you drive up.Climb the relatively easy corner to the first roof, undercling left (crux), and continue up a wide crack through another smaller roof to the top. A belay can be set after the first undercling ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CT


Photos of Central CT Traprock Slideshow Add Photo
Classic Traprock ascent

Classic Traprock ascent

Doug demonstrating textbook jamming on Cat Crack

Doug demonstrating textbook jamming on Cat Crack

Me on Cat Crack

Me on Cat Crack


Comments on Central CT Traprock Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 22, 2006

John,

Thanks for adding Ragged Mountain. Hope you will contribute some routes to the Gunks as well!

FYI -- Fritz's name is spelled Wiessner (i before e).

By John Peterson
Feb 27, 2006

After getting chewed out by Sam Streibert for misspelling his name my i and e are permanently reversed.

By Eastvillage
From: New York, NY
Mar 19, 2006

Nice to see Connecticut on this site. However, climbers new to the area should know that most of the classic lines on the major crags SHOULD be led. As mentioned before, CT has a long climbing history and that history was written on the lead. Yes it's strenuous etc., but that's what makes CT climbing so great.

By john gilchrist
From: sLC, utah
May 9, 2006

heck yah Ct climbing is fun worth a trip

By CaptainMo
Administrator
Aug 3, 2012

And apparently, a lot of CT history was unfortunately written on Top Rope too...

By Dmadison
From: CT
May 5, 2013

This is a very vague and general question but I was wondering if a majority of the routes in the Central traprock area require being led on gear? I don't want to show up at a crag and not be able to climb anything considering I don't lead trad (yet).

By CaptainMo
Administrator
May 7, 2013

HA! Most folks in CT TR the crap outta traprock with an occasional lead.