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 ADVANCED
Mt. Webster
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Central Couloir T 
Greens Chasm T 
Horseshoe Gully 
Landslide Gully 
Shoestring Gully 
Unknown 

Central Couloir 

WI3 M1 Easy Snow

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 2 pitches, 1000'
Consensus: WI3 M1 [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,455
Submitted By: nhclimber on Feb 1, 2010  with updates from Tom Sherman

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BETA PHOTO: The upper reaches of the couloir

Description 

A long snow and ice gully, 1000+', will bring you to a sharp dogleg left once you reach the butress that splits Central and Greens Chasm. Continue up the snow gulley till you reach a large steep flow in the back of the gulley (WI 3+/4+). You can also break left at almost any point and climb the broken rock at M1 fun. Or stay left further up the gulley till it pinches off in the back, WI3.

Location 

Last of the major gullies before the Webster Slabs. The northernmost of the four prominent gullies on Mt. Webster seen from Rt. 302. Park at the Willey House parking lot, or choose to park directly across from the gully on a pul-off nearer to Willey's Slide parking and east of 302. The latter option may be less traveled and present difficulty crossing the Saco River. From Willey House lot cross the bridge and head left, north, toward Central Couloir. Keep heading up the notch until you reach the slabs, then trend up the right hand margin of slabs until you reach the base of the couloir.

Protection 

Screws


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By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Jan 12, 2011

The right hand finish was/is very thin and dry last weekend. Stick with the left hand chimney finish for now. Also, torturous walk off. Rap anything you can!