Central Corner 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | [Dave Bell] |
| Submitted By: | Darin Lang on Jul 22, 2001 |
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This is the killer top pitch with great hands and ...
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Description An aesthetic hand crack in a vertical to overhanging dihedral on Skinner Mountain's obvious headwall, Central Corner provides pleasant if sometimes awkward jams, great pro, and fantastic position. It definitely gets three stars and is worth the hike up to Skinner just for this climb.
Central Corner proper is actually the third pitch of any number of climbs on Skinner's lower section. The fastest way to reach the base is by climbing the first two pitches of Wally World (easy). It can also be reached by climbing your choice of a 5.7 slab, a 5.8 slab, or a 5.9- slab beginning around the corner to the left of the start of Wally World. Just pick a line of bolts and head up.
Once in view of the vertical to slightly overhanging headwall, Central Corner is obvious as the only feasible (for mere mortals) line, located in the ominous-looking dihedral approximately in the middle of the headwall. Begin with a few awkward moves to establish yourself in the crack and then fire up past a couple of overhangs to the top. A short wider spot near the bottom can be skirted by using a thin crack on the face. There is really no obvious crux - just fairly sustained 9+ the whole way up.
Protection About 4 #2 Camalots and 2 #3 Camalots would really sew it up. Otherwise, take a standard rack weighted towards hand-sized pieces: a few medium and large hexes, a small selection of medium stoppers (a #6 Stopper is just about right), a #1 Camalot, at least two #2 Camalots/2.5 Friends and one #3 Camalot or #4 Friend.
Jay V -climbing; photo by -Steve S
EXCEL...
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Almost finished.
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Taking the fall.
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Nice sunny January day in the Platte.
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BETA PHOTO: Central corner from Wally World.
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C. "Danger" Johnson loving those fist jams.
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Enjoying a good rest.
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High in the stellar corner.
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At the first of two roofs.
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| Comments on Central Corner |
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By Chad Stebbins
Jun 22, 2008
rating: 5.10a
| Great pitch that looks harder from the start than it is. Best approach seems to be the 5.7ish slab route with welded cold shuts.
I think a single set of cams with two #4 Friends (an extra #3.5 would work, too) protects this well. I brought doubles in the hand sizes and was good with a single #2.5, 3, and 3.5 Friend. Just FYI for those who don't feel like lugging the extra gear only to sit on it at the belay. There's a few placements on the face for smaller stuff.
Descent: scramble off the backside and find a faint trail to climber's right. |
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Jan 28, 2009
| This route is pretty sweet! don't need much gear, I used a 3.5, and 3 #2s.
Might have been nice to have 2 #3.5s or a #4. |
By Shane Neal
From: Colorado Springs, CO.
Jun 25, 2009
| Vey nice crack. Great pro, super view, beautiful summit view. A must do. |
By Christopher Jones
From: Denver, Colorado
Nov 23, 2009
| Very fun route, been on it several times and it never gets old. |
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Jan 12, 2010
| A #4 c4 is useful. You can bump it up, but leave it by the little chockstone. You won't need it beyond there....
1 #4 (optional, but nice)
2 #3
2 #2 |
By Chris Mack
May 27, 2012
rating: 5.10a
| Just did this again this morning with Nick Barczak. That last pitch is classic. Perfect hands, great features on the face, and jugs appear right when you want them. If you do a lot of crack climbing, you may not even need tape! Such a great line! |
By George Bracksieck
Jan 3, 2013
| I led Kevin Smyth up the crux, final pitch, all free, on Jan 17, 1982. My friend Steve Sarns had done it previously, using some aid. We climbed this pitch before the Baker/Prandoni 1986 "FA" listed in Hubbel's guidebook. We all climbed the first two pitches of what is now called "Wally World" enroute to the spectacular final pitch. This rock had no bolts in those days. |
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