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Central Chimney Area
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Central Chimney 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 825
Submitted By: pete cogan on Apr 14, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: The start of the route.
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a fun, moderate climb with excellent pro. The first pitch could use some gardening, and is easy 5.5. The second pitch -- belay from bolts -- is trickier, short, and fun. The last pitch has several crack options, and the two on the left both demand an airy small traverse that can be protected well.

I'd call it 5.7 in the harder moves.

Rossiter's book provides approach info. Can't miss this one.


Protection 

Pro to 4.5 cam. 2 bolt anchor for first belay. Can sew it all up.



Photos of Central Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
The last pitch and the crux area.
BETA PHOTO: The last pitch and the crux area.
Looking up, midway up the last pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up, midway up the last pitch.
Comments on Central Chimney Add Comment
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By Brendan Sheehan
Jun 11, 2002

Wasn't real impressed with this route. It's ok....but far from great. I don't know why Rossiter gives it a star. P2 and P3 offer a few thoughtful moves for the 5.6 leader...but that's about it. Bolts atop P1 may be a bit of a stretch with a 50m. I stopped to belay 10+ feet short, but it may have streched.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jun 14, 2002

You can continue this climb 2 more short pitches above the "walkoff" ledge to the top of the rock. Certainly has some less continuous sections but has a nice corner finish in the same 5.5-5.7 range.

By Paul Weiss
Aug 1, 2003

First pitch is relatively uneventful. The second pitch is however very fun with some thoughful airy moves and there are a few route variations to choose from. No crowds and due to the rocks high position in the canyon provides really great views. In the evening you are treated with a sunset over the divide.

This route is not climbed often so watch out for the sneaky lichen.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Aug 25, 2004

The start can be done to the R with a short, tricky 5.7 OW flare that, oddly enough, does not require an OW move. With a 60m rope, you can pass the 40ft anchors (of Cold Fusion) & the 165 ft anchors, to reach the 185 ft anchors on P1. It may be more enjoyable to go R on P2 & do P3 of On Ballet.

By Jeff Barnow
From: Boulder Co
Aug 17, 2006

On the last pitch, there are two routes possible, the one to the right is slightly more difficult and is more of a chimney. If you choose the left route, which it appears most do you have to traverse slightly right at the top of the pitch, there is a massive hold which is difficult to spot from below but if you commit you've made it. The previous chimney is also fun and offers the left and right chimney options. This climb is fun but no jewel by any means.

By John Korfmacher
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 1, 2009

P2 makes the effort worthwhile--it's a nifty pitch tunneling up through the chimney with good jams, sidepulls and body friction. Pro is good throughout.

The leftmost corner/crack on P3 was nice, as is the traverse that follows. Not a super-exciting route, but it's a good tour of the Blob.

By Frederic Regis
Jul 12, 2009

I don't know. P3 is fun. P2 is a VERY tight chimney... didn't think it was that fun (probably depends if you like that type of climb or not). I lead P1 and had to convince myself a few times to put pro in... was really easy.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Nov 13, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

The route is 5.6 for the last pitch and maybe a 10' section of the second pitch. It says on here to bring up to a 4.5" cam. The biggest piece I placed was a #2 Camalot. You could place a 4.5" piece but, it does not seem necessary. I free soloed the 1st pitch. It is quite easy. There are bolt anchors at the top of the 1st and second pitch. The descent starting down from the Erickson's Crack anchor was easy to do with 3 single rope raps.