Central Chimney 5.4
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.5 [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Submitted By: | Guy H. on Oct 31, 2001 |
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BETA PHOTO: Central Chimney ascends the broken chasm in the ce...
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Description This is an OK beginner's route up the Southeast face of Greyrock. Follow the main trail looking for the obvious chimney. If the trail touches the main rock, you have gone too far.
P1: Wander up easy low angle cracks to the base of the "chimney" pitch.
P2: This is the best pitch on the climb. Climb the 2-3 foot chimney for ~75 feet with very little pro. Surmount the headwall with a 3-4 foot chimney and belay.
P3-4: Another pitch or two of easy cracks will lead you to the top of Greyrock.
Descent: Follow the hiking trail to the base of the climb. It is best to scout out the hiking trail before doing the climb, if this is your first time at Greyrock.
Protection Light SR.
| Comments on Central Chimney |
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By Rodney Ley
Jul 3, 2006
| Central Chimney is a nice route at a beginner's level.
Tip of the week: watch out for rope drag, since most of the route is low-angle and very easy, there is a temptation to run out the rope.
I didn't think pro was a problem, but then I cut my teeth on chimneys at Vedauwoo. |
By Aaron Martinuzzi
Feb 14, 2010
| A little route-finding beta for those interested - Central Chimney starts about 70 or 80 feet right of Barfy's Favorite, which is easily identified as a handcrack rising off the top of a boulder.
CC offers fun climbing throughout - the crux is definitely stemming past the chockstone "headwall" at the end of P2. P1, and portions of pitches 3 and 4 are as easy as 4th class. Be sure to choose your belays positions wisely in the colder months - that chimney can be coooold. |
By Smokemonkey
Mar 28, 2011
rating: 5.6 PG13
| p2 ended in the chimney with a large chockstone blocking the way. Almost a roof move? Could be fairly frustrating for beginners expecting 5.4 climbing...I suggest staying climbers left at tthe base of the chimney and get out on the face, using the small crack systems to protect a fun low angle slab/face climb. I can't say what we did today was a 5.4, p1 could be graded as a 5.4, but the following 3 pitches should be considered a little more...FYI, there was a large nest under the chockstone, probally another reason to stay out and limit our impact... |
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