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 ADVANCED
Lower Great Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anchor Baby T 
Beside The Seaside T 
Central Buttress/5.7 start T 
Closed Casket S 
DuMais Route T 
Green Wave, The T,S 
Left Center T 
Pyramid Scheme S 
Ramshorn T 
Tribal Regions T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Central Buttress/5.7 start 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 600'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 932
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Aug 27, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO

Description 

This is a pleasant climb up the obvious rounded arÍte splitting the Lower Great Face; however, it utilizes an easier start to the right (in the land of many dihedrals) to gain the arÍte 200 feet up. The actual rounded arÍte looked challenging for the group I was with that day, so we looked left, then right for less bulging terrain.

P1. To the right of this arÍte, we used a nice crack/dihedral system for perhaps 100 feet, 5.6, from there a traverse into more alpine-feeling terrain and a slight left-angling line took us to a perch with ok belay with a wire, #0.75 Camalot, #1 Camalot, and red Alien, 200 feet.

P2. Move up alpine-feeling rock to a mid-cliff break and continue up exquisite, beautiful, face climbing reminiscent of an toned-down version of Hallett's, 5.5, 200ft.

P3. Easier climbing arcs slightly to the left to a ledge system short of the top. One last bit and you're there. Beware of rope drag with this last bit. 5.4, 200ft. Walk off E into the gully between the Upper and Lower Great Faces and skirt the Lower Great Face on the N end.

Certainly there are harder variations to this line, 5.10b Rossiter & Griebe, 5.10d Gillett & Snively, but the path of least resistance described here is a delightful romp.


Protection 

Wires, hexes, single set of cams to #4 Camalot, 60m useful.



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