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This is a long climb up nice corners on a fairly well-defined buttress. The cracks run out near the top and two aid bolts were drilled at the crux. This section might go free. Only funky, short, European bolts were availiable in Durango at the time, just like those put in on Cerro Torre's Compressor Route. Might not hold too well now.
Ken on Central Buttress.
BETA PHOTO: Central Buttress.
Yellow dashes - free climbing.
One of the first good views coming up Flint Creek.
The PN in good evening light.
Trout Man on pitch 3.
Looking down pitch 5, climbing the left side of th...
Trout Man, in the aider, climbing off the Pillar.
Trout Man on the summit with rain and hail minutes...
|Comments on Central Buttress
Jul 8, 2011
The Central Buttress is an all time classic up a wilderness dome with an alpine feel. Straightforward route finding via a natural line easily spied from the Fish Camp below. The first bolt in the last section of aid is the worst bolt either of us had seen. Bent and hanging mostly out of the rock, this bolt desperately needs to be replaced.
Props to Ken Trout for the first ascent of this visionary line.
|By Badger Mitchell|
Sep 5, 2011
Did this route in 7/11 and found it to be half excellent (splitter dihedrals) and half terrible (big, loose blocks I wish we had kicked off/bushes and grass). We did it in 6 pitches and went off route on our pitch 4 (the right side of the dihedral - don't do it - it was very scary, wet, loose, 5.8 climbing with some 5.10 moves and a 5.12- crack we aided). I presumed there was going to be a 5.10 OW but the only offwidth section we found was more like 5.8 and no problem unless the OW section is on the "5.8" pitch above the stellar 5.9 roof crack that is pictured here. We brought doubles from blue TCU's up to new C4 #3s and a #4 and #5. Both of the big one's came in handy on pitches 1 and 4 (for the OW). This was a big adventure and fun, but brutal to do in 3 days. If I knew anything about replacing bolts, I would have replaced "the worst looking bolt in the world." I remember it being a Star drive an inch and a half out of the rock. It held me stepping onto it and needed to aid up to it and through it to the next bolt (pretty airy!). The walk off was brutal and we could not walk down to the bottom - we made it within 20 feet and left a sling and biner - wet, tall bushes, rocky - we were spent at the end of the day and did not enjoy the flat hike out. I will rent horses the next time I go out there...but it was a great adventure.
|By Andy F|
Aug 20, 2013
Awesome adventure climbing!! We had the intention of replacing the "worst bolt in the world", but lightning and rain made us bail on day one of climbing. Day two we just wanted to get to the top of the route and descend before it got dark. We cleaned some huge loose blocks off the route, but more still needs to be done. I thought the pitch off the pedestal was kinda hard. Props to the FA party on an awesome line.