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 ADVANCED
The Lunchbox
Select Route:
Blueberry Lizards T 
Centipede Corner T 
Chocolotate Covered Scorpion Crack T 
El Throatchoker Grande T 
Frosted Snakes T 
Hold the Jam T 
Talia Sandwich T 
Whine and Cheese T 

Centipede Corner 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Geir, Marcy, and Doso
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,639
Submitted By: Geir on Oct 11, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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BETA PHOTO: "Guatamajala" Joe Garcia leading Centipede Corner

Description 

A modern Queen Creek classic. This beautiful, right-leaning crack and corner system lies on the west face of the Lunchbox. It is an unusual Queen Creek climb as it combines true crack climbing, tricky stemming, and powerful laybacks on an entirely gear-protected route. For those climbing trad at the grade, it should not be missed.

Descent: A 60m rope is just long enough to rap the route with rope stretch. Be careful and make sure your rope is the whole way down. For those who come up a bit short, stop at the anchors for Hold the Jam (about 1/3 of the way down on your right) and then do a second rappel to the ground.

Location 

See overview photo.

Protection 

Stoppers, singles through 1.75". Triples of #2 and #3 Camalot & doubles of #1 and #4 Camalot.


Photos of Centipede Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Jeff on his way up, photo by Erin
Jeff on his way up, photo by Erin
Centipede Corner on the left. Frosted Snakes on the right.
BETA PHOTO: Centipede Corner on the left. Frosted Snakes on th...
David Arthur Sampson leading Centipede Corner
David Arthur Sampson leading Centipede Corner
David Sampson on the redpoint
David Sampson on the redpoint

Comments on Centipede Corner Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 13, 2013
By Joe Garcia
From: Phoenix, Az
Nov 3, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Wonderful route! One of my favorites in queen creek! Bring your lead head on this one!
By David Arthur Sampson
Nov 3, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Definitely my favorite route at LDE (at the moment; things can change)
THANKS Geir and Marcy for finding this route!!!
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Nov 8, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Sweet and well protected indeed! Some loose stuff down low, pulled off now, but the cruxy part is terrific, truly. Still prefer Throat choker b/c of the length, diversity and the views from top, but this is second so far...awesome find you both, thanks!
By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Nov 16, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

One of my favorites at LDE for sure. The first 50 feet or so are continuous and physical. Lots of jamming for Queen Creek, a nice change of pace.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 6, 2009

Yesterday I got on this climb and gave it a very thorough cleaning. Other than some dust that will wash off with the next rain, you should find it in prime shape.
By Catherine Conner
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jan 19, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I can't rant and rave enough about this climb. I think it's the best climb in Lower Devils area! If you like trad and crack and being able to pro well, this is IT!!!! Thought it was sustained. My hardest trad lead yet, LOVE IT, a MUST DO!!!!
By TylerW
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 8, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

great route! one less loose foothold at the crux after my trip up :)
By JD Kendall
From: Winslow, AZ
Apr 20, 2010

Excellent route! Definitely a must do... sustained 10c climbing for most of the route. Definitely a challenging lead.
By Jimbo
Apr 27, 2010

As good as any moderate trad route anywhere in Arizona.

Awesome feature with great gear.

This ones got it all. Hands, fists, locks and lay backs.

10c at the start and bit easier the rest of the way.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 17, 2010

On November 12 Marcy redpointed this route on her first attempt with no warmup. It is her hardest pure trad redpoint to date. Congrats!!!
By Jimbo
Nov 18, 2010

Marcy's getting her trad on! This route is no gimme, great job Marcy!
By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Nov 21, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Muchas gracias, Geir and Jim! I couldn't/wouldn't have done it without Geir on belay =)
By Mike
From: Phoenix
Mar 9, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

What a great route, consistently steep & fun. This isn't your ordinary Queen Creek crack.
By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 6, 2011

Spicy start, then sustained, then bliss. Thanks to Geir and Marcy for the labor of love at this truly special place.
By Austin Sobotka
Jan 13, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

first of all, to add to the plethora of comments alluding to it already, it is an awesome line! this and smokin' guns are definitely my two favorite routes in queen creek. though i thought the rating of 10b/c was a little generous. for the area i could see it falling in that range,but more universally i would put it at 9+/10-. only mentioning it because it would be a shame to scare away folks who climb consistently in sandbagged areas, or have only experienced trad in such areas