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Centerpiece 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Scott Stevenson 1987
Page Views: 4,940
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (120)
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Cliff flashing his second lead ever.

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is one of the best routes on this cliff (my personal favorite at the moment). The line is consistently steep and pumpy, but if you get to know it well you can dial it in and avoid the pump.

You start up a steep wall with incut holds that are better than they look from the ground. You gain a ledge that's not as good as it looks. Move to the right a little here if this spot is wet. a few slopers lead to a pretty good rest. move back to the left and up good holds to the top. Careful foot work will get you through here if the pump is catching up with you. Top out and do a few easy moves to the anchor.

Location 

This route is the next one left of Masterpiece (5.10a) finishes to the right of the BIG roof of Noodle (5.12b).

Protection 

8 bolts to quick clips.


Photos of Centerpiece Slideshow Add Photo
Tim DeRoehn hiking a ropeless lap on Cenerpiece and as always making it look flawless...
Tim DeRoehn hiking a ropeless lap on Cenerpiece an...
Starting up at the block.
Starting up at the block.
Nick on Centerpiece (Red Helmet). Upon lowering he adamantly declared "That was not a warm-up"
Nick on Centerpiece (Red Helmet). Upon lowering he...
Azlan fighting the pump on Centerpiece.
Azlan fighting the pump on Centerpiece.

Comments on Centerpiece Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Sep 21, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This really is a great climb, don't be lulled by the grade it is pumpy and not a good warm-up (flash-pump for sure)for Social or any of the other 12s on this wall.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 21, 2007

it took me a while but i warm up quite nicely on this one these days... but then again just up the hill folks are warming up on Techno and Whiptide i guess its all relative... either way this is one of the best 5.10ds ive climbed...
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jul 7, 2008

Fun the whole way up. Love this climb... but have been greeted by wasps buzzing in some of the holds just before the anchors the past few times I've climbed this.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Nov 16, 2008

One of my favorites at Rumney. Still fun after many, many , many repeats.
By S. Neoh
Mar 22, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

It is unanimous - this is a great route. Full value. One hard clip (last bolt on route?) if you are relatively short like me.
By ward smith
Oct 16, 2013

I think that the FA was by Tom Bowker. When I did it in the 80's it was rated 10c in the Climbing Magazine new routes section. I did Peer Pressure first, and then this, which I was surprised at because I though that it was definitely harder. Anyway, the best route at the crag IMHO.
By Harald Harb
From: Dumont
May 7, 2014

Fun climb, style is like Pile Driver at Rifle, but easier than Pile Driver..