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> 3. Black Wall - Right
Centerfold
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Max Rodatz, 2008 |
Page Views: | 959 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | V.X. on Jul 3, 2012 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures
Details
Mind nesting raptors that raise young on the Black Wall some years. If you sight a peregrine, contact Dan Joannes, staff biology guy for the Truckee Donner Land Trust at Daniel@tdlandtrust.org
Description
Climb the first half of "Porno Book" and set up a gear anchor in an acute gully below a diamond shaped face on the right. Keep looking right for a single bolt near a tiny horizontal seam. Climb the nonexistent horizontal seam out right on knobs and crimps to a vertical seam. Launch up the vertical crack. Place pro when you got it and keep looking for useable face holds. When the crack disappears, tiptoe out right on small holds. Pretty full-on from start to finish. Build gear anchor on top. Get a great preview of this climb from the "Full Tilt" ledges.
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