Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Papoose
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Centerfold T 
Hairpin T 
Hanging Gardens T 
Laid Back T 
Mercury Vapour T 
Mushroom T 
Obsession T 
Pamplemousse T,S 
Papoose One T 
Transit of Venus T 

Centerfold 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,599
Submitted By: blakeherrington on Aug 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Collin getting into the business on pitch 1

Description 

Three pitch climb up the middle of the Papoose. A classic route with high quality climbing and good variety.

P1. Follow finger cracks and groove trending left (bolted) to a belay on the narrow, treed 'Moccasin Ledge'.

P2. Perfect hand jams up a groove on the left end of the ledge and through a small roof lead to wild stemming and twin finger cracks. From here, mantle up and left to the belay.

P3. Follow a delicated slab (bolts and small gear) to the top. This pitch is more runout than the first two.
This climb takes a line to the left of a major left-facing corner syst

Location 

This route begins in the center of the Papoose and climbs to the left of a prominent left-facing corner at the same height as P2. The quick and easy walkoff (8 minutes) goes down and to the right. It's possible to rappel the route, but some shenanigans are encountered with a 60m rope, and you will likely bother other climbers.

Protection 

Cams to 3" and a set of nuts


Photos of Centerfold Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down the first pitch from Mocassin ledge. The crux of the first pitch is a slabby move that is protected with a bolt. This pitch is shared with the start of Papoose One.
Looking down the first pitch from Mocassin ledge. ...
View down from the second belay. The bottom half of the pitch is solid hand crack with some challenging moves. The upper half turns to face climbing.
BETA PHOTO: View down from the second belay. The bottom half o...
What climb would be complete without some slab climbing?
What climb would be complete without some slab cli...

Comments on Centerfold Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Teschke
From: North Vancouver
May 25, 2009

Fun route. Last pitch is fully bolted, though a bit run out, there is a nice small cam placement between the first and second bolts if the potential for landing on your belayer makes you nervous.
Easily rap'd with two 60m ropes in two rappels. I am not sure if a 70m rope would be long enough for the first rappel off the top. But a 60m is definitely way short.
By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Aug 24, 2010

Being more crack climbers than slab climbers we opted to try the Pinup variation for the third pitch, which takes you to into a dirty corner that feels harder than the 5.9 given by the guidebook(likely due to the moss and pine needles on the face holds and filling the crack). We were able to rappel the route(from the top of Pinup) in 3 raps with a 60m. I wouldn't repeat this variation.
By Adrian Lazar
Jul 18, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

What an awesome climb! P2 & P3 are great. P1 & P2 can be linked.

We rapped the route in 2 raps with 2x 60m twins.
By AJV
Jul 4, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Beautiful climb. While there is definitely some run-outs, they are on easier terrain and didn't give me much concern (and I'm a bad slab climber...). The pitch 2 hand traverse is not very positive. I didn't place gear for 7 or 8 feet before hitting it and expected it to be good, but it's not great. I ended up taking a pretty good whip from there. When I pulled back up I put in higher gear and found a foot I'd missed. Bottom line - don't run it out for the horizontal break, it's not as good as you'd think.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 9, 2013

A 70m just makes the first rap, but tie knots. Then you can rap straight down to the anchors above the 11c. And then a final rap down.
By Luke Stefurak
From: Mountain View, CA
Aug 12, 2013

I thought the run-outs were fairly inconsistent, and the route seemed oddly bolted. Also there are still some old bolts on this route.

Hard for me to think this is top 100. I wouldn't recommend it to friends.
By Ralph Swansen
From: Denver CO
Aug 24, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Great climbing. Stout for the grade. I have never been so runout, not a fan of that. Big fall potential. I think that having double ropes helped extremely with rope management. If you are pushing your grade, you may want to think a bit before attempting this runout climb!

PG-13
By Adrian Lazar
Aug 27, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The crux on p2 can be protected with a blue or orange Metollius TCU.