Centerfold 5.10b
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Looking down the first pitch from Mocassin ledge. ...
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Description Three pitch climb up the middle of the Papoose. A classic route with high quality climbing and good variety.
P1. Follow finger cracks and groove trending left (bolted) to a belay on the narrow, treed 'Moccasin Ledge'.
P2. Perfect hand jams up a groove on the left end of the ledge and through a small roof lead to wild stemming and twin finger cracks. From here, mantle up and left to the belay.
P3. Follow a delicated slab (bolts and small gear) to the top. This pitch is more runout than the first two.
This climb takes a line to the left of a major left-facing corner syst
Location This route begins in the center of the Papoose and climbs to the left of a prominent left-facing corner at the same height as P2. The quick and easy walkoff (8 minutes) goes down and to the right. It's possible to rappel the route, but some shenanigans are encountered with a 60m rope, and you will likely bother other climbers.
Protection Cams to 3" and a set of nuts
BETA PHOTO: View down from the second belay. The bottom half o...
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Collin getting into the business on pitch 1
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What climb would be complete without some slab cli...
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By Mike Teschke
From: North Vancouver
May 25, 2009
| Fun route. Last pitch is fully bolted, though a bit run out, there is a nice small cam placement between the first and second bolts if the potential for landing on your belayer makes you nervous.
Easily rap'd with two 60m ropes in two rappels. I am not sure if a 70m rope would be long enough for the first rappel off the top. But a 60m is definitely way short. |
By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Aug 24, 2010
| Being more crack climbers than slab climbers we opted to try the Pinup variation for the third pitch, which takes you to into a dirty corner that feels harder than the 5.9 given by the guidebook(likely due to the moss and pine needles on the face holds and filling the crack). We were able to rappel the route(from the top of Pinup) in 3 raps with a 60m. I wouldn't repeat this variation. |
By Adrian Lazar
Jul 18, 2012
rating: 5.10b
| What an awesome climb! P2 & P3 are great. P1 & P2 can be linked.
We rapped the route in 2 raps with 2x 60m twins. |
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