Just right of Kermit's Wad and now Punany, is a right facing crack system that Punany actuially starts in before it climbs up and left to the 1st bolt. Centerfold climbs this crack that has marginal protection. The climbing is fun, the line is great...if it protected better it should be more popular. Come and enjoy, and if you don't enjoy this lead, climb Cranial or Smitty's and enjoy this climb on top-rope.
Small to medium gear will protect down low. The piton that the Ruckman's mention in their book is absent. Also, from about mid-height to where it joins up with Kermit's, protection is non-existent, with at best 1 small brass.
BETA PHOTO: 1) Punany 2) Centerfold 3) Smitty's Wet Dream ...
BETA PHOTO: Centerfold and surroundings w/o lines
|By Lee Jensen|
Mar 17, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
We did this one on top rope after hitting Cranial Prophylactic. I really enjoyed it. Slab friction moves, lie backs, and long reaches. Great for tall fokes. It would be really hard to protect if you lead it, but the crack at the bottom of the dihedral might provide a place for a few pieces. Unfortunately, these rare spots are also the best places for your hands.