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Center Stage
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British PG13
Avg: 3.8 from 4
votes
Routes in Upper Beer Wall
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3.2 T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Bouncer T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Center Stage T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Dark Horse Ail T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Fake ID T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Flying & Drinking and Drinking & Driving T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Frosted Mug T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Guinness T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Labatt-Ami T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Neutron Brew T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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No Comments from the Peanut Gallery T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Radioactive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Roaring Twenties T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Seven Ounces T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Standard T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tequila Mockingbird T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | 1988: Patrick Purcell and Don Mellor |
| Page Views: | 1,817 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Jim Lawyer on Jul 22, 2015 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
One of the better 5.12 trad routes in the park. It hasn't seen much attention over the years, but has recently been thoroughly scrubbed. The first ascent avoided the initial overhanging wall by climbing a cedar tree, which is now gone. The direct start goes at V4.
In addition to the hard start, the route has several additional cruxes: the endurance face climbing (which is also runout), and the slab at the top.
Boulder up the overhanging wall (~V4) to a ledge. (You may want to stick clip a high piece here to avoid groundfall.) From the ledge, continue up a fingercrack to its top, then traverse left 5' to another short crack. Protect here (bomber #0.4), then punch it up and right to a bolt, then up to a ledge. Negotiate a few puzzling, heartbreaker slab moves, then up horizontals and a right-leaning crack to the top. There's a nice spacious ledge at the top with a large tree for an anchor.
In addition to the hard start, the route has several additional cruxes: the endurance face climbing (which is also runout), and the slab at the top.
Boulder up the overhanging wall (~V4) to a ledge. (You may want to stick clip a high piece here to avoid groundfall.) From the ledge, continue up a fingercrack to its top, then traverse left 5' to another short crack. Protect here (bomber #0.4), then punch it up and right to a bolt, then up to a ledge. Negotiate a few puzzling, heartbreaker slab moves, then up horizontals and a right-leaning crack to the top. There's a nice spacious ledge at the top with a large tree for an anchor.
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