|399 page views|
This is a decent climb in the shade on a hot day, but it is not a great climb. Approach the school slabs of the Thumb and go right, heading down and around a corner to a set of twin cracks ascending into an awkward (but fun) left-facing corner.
P1: 5.8, 90' Climb up this and exit left over a bulge perhaps 15 meters up, and head left to a comfortable belay stance at 25 meters or so. From there, belay due to rope drag.
P2: 5.6, 100' Climb up the crack and slot above this to the top of the rock. This pitch is deceptively long, as it rolls past a few false summits on decreasingly low angle slabs. Belay up top.
To descend, rap 100' from the back side and walk around the south end past the slabs to the base, or go NE and rap twice (2 X 80') down Mind Over Matter and the Zig Arete to near the base.
A set of nuts and a set of cams. Several longer slings.