Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Spire
Select Route:
Blow Chow T,TR 
Center Slab S 
Dire Spire T,TR 
Full Nelson Reilly II T,S,TR 
Hire Spire T,TR 
Spire-A-Jyra T,S 

Center Slab 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Alvino Pon
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,005
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Aug 21, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Brendan Sheehan about halfway up the route.

Description 

This is a new Alvino Pon route. "Center Slab" is a temporary name until the real name is known.

The route goes up the slab between Full Nelson Reilly and Dire Spire.

Begin at the big tree next to the rock. The first bolt is about 15' up and a little left of the tree.

Climb up behind the tree, clip the first bolt, and work up left to a ledge with a ring bolt. Climb up the slab and a shallow crack. Continue up the slab to the right edge of the roof, pass the roof on the right, and angle up left to the anchors.

The leader can belay the second from a good ledge at the two-bolt anchor. Rappel 95' back to the start.

Two stars for clean rock, continuity, and good moves.

Protection 

8 bolts, 3 pins, 2-bolt anchor.


Photos of Center Slab Slideshow Add Photo
Center Slab route.  Red = bolt, cyan = pin, yellow = anchors
BETA PHOTO: Center Slab route. Red = bolt, cyan = pin, yellow...
Brendan Sheehan passing the roof.
Brendan Sheehan passing the roof.

Comments on Center Slab Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 16, 2003

Wow by looking at the pictures it looks like there are usable cracks for gear all the way up this one.
By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
Apr 28, 2004

While there are opportunities for gear placements along the way, some of the cracks are a bit too flaring and/or shallow.
By ac
Oct 19, 2005

As of 10/18 the first three bolts are missing their hangers. Easy climbing past bolt 1, there is good gear up to the first piton, but it does not just fall into the placements. There was a placement near each piton, in case you don't want to trust them.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 12, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The hangers all got replaced, but I can't say as if they are needed. We did the whole route without a runout or clipping a single bolt.
By Hiro
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 29, 2012

Route is listed as "100 Stripes on a Fool's Back" in the Gillett book. The route info here is more up to date though (I say without having been out to the rock).