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BETA PHOTO: Center Route starts in the same hole as Cytogrinde...
Center Route is one of the harder lines in the Black Hole and is a stellar independent line up the center of the cave (hence the name). Start as for Cytogrinder, and use either the sickenly sharp "potatoe peeler" crimper, or the pocket of cytogrinder to move to a small undercling. From here a couple of left hand moves position you for the final toss to the "deck of cards" hold at the lip. Sustained and difficult movement best describe this line, requiring both power and technique. A great testpiece for the aspiring V10 boulderer.
Couple of pads are nice.
Brian on Center Route.
Brian getting the crimp.
Jay keeping centered....
|By Anonymous Coward|
Oct 29, 2005
Young Doug...1st ascent by David Twinam...late '80s early '90s. Unrepeated for a long time.
|By doug rouse|
Mar 16, 2010
I need to add...the first hold is the crimp, not the undercling that is frequently used and previously modified. The photo of Brian shows him using the correct hold (potato peeler). Doing it using the undercling is probably hard V8.
|By Tank Evans|
Dec 29, 2010
More like V6 with the undercling....
Seriously though, the grade is the same whether you use the pocket or the peeler. It's just a matter of pain tolerance.