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Rincon - Center Route & R
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another Pipeline Bonecrusher T,S 
Camouflage S 
Center Route T 
Concentric T 
Counterstroke T 
Five-Eight Crack T,TR 
Five-Ten Crack T 
Front Side Lip Smack T 
Green Room, The T 
Killing Fields, The T 
Mind Over Matter T,TR 
Neato T,TR 
On the Crest T 
Outer Limbits T,TR 
Point Break T,S 
Raccoon Soup aka Thunderbolts T,TR 
Reveley-Hunter T 
Rincon T 
Rincon Dink T 
Rincon Light T 
Rinodina T 
Spicoli S 
Toprope Left of Spicoli TR 
Warp Riders T 

Center Route 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Larry and Roger Dalke, 1965. FFA: Chris Reveley, Scott Woodru
Fixed Hardware: 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 7,609
Submitted By: David Benson on May 20, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (102)
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Chris Sharma enjoys a rare trad lead on the first ...

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Note: I've only climbed the first pitch to the bolted anchors.

Start from the top of a large flat boulder, about 25' to the left of Rincon. The start is an intimidating left facing corner. However the start is actually pretty easy (9) with good holds and rests above.

Continue in the right facing corner (yes, it changes) up under a large roof. There's a fixed pin under the roof of reasonable quality, but other gear is easy to place. Move up and traverse left around the corner below the roof. It is possible to place a #2 Camalot in the pod before you pull out of the roof.

The crux is getting situated after pulling out of the roof. Placing gear here is slightly awkward, but small/med nuts are available.

Step right over the roof and continue up the shallow right facing dihedral. 10-12 feet of excellent climbing (mid 10) before the difficulties ease somewhat. Two or three fixed pins of marginal quality (and generally good gear is nearby) are in the upper part of this dihedral before the broken band. Traverse left about 8' to a two bolt anchor.

From the 1st anchor you can either top rope Evictor (12c/d), rappel or continue.

Per Bryson Slothower:

Pitch 2 starts with a tricky 10b move over a bulge above the belay and continues up a right-facing dihedral with raspberry bushes for a 100 feet to a comfortable belay ledge. Protect early on this pitch to avoid landing in your belayers lap and go in August for the best raspberries.

Pitch 3 cuts left on jugs up and around the corner to a slab (8+). Continue up the slab passing a band of loose rotten rock (5.8S) and belay on the large walk off ledge. Walk off to the left past the finish of Over The Hill.

Protection 

Single set of cams to #2 Camalot, nuts. Opening moves can be protected with a #4 Camalot or #4 Friend (slightly small).


Photos of Center Route Slideshow Add Photo
Sara Born cruxing.
Sara Born cruxing.
K.B. pulling the roof on the Center route...
K.B. pulling the roof on the Center route...
Adam Brink. Not even breaking a sweat.
Adam Brink. Not even breaking a sweat.
Very casually checking out the move around the roof.
Very casually checking out the move around the roo...
Greg starting the crux moves.
Greg starting the crux moves.
Sara Born trying to cop a rest.
Sara Born trying to cop a rest.
At the hand jams in the middle of the 10 upper crack. Save a hand-sized cam for here--a #2 Camalot works.
At the hand jams in the middle of the 10 upper cra...
Approaching the ceiling. The climber on the right is belaying the second pitch of Rincon. Photo by Luke Clarke.
Approaching the ceiling. The climber on the right ...
Eric Whewell styling the corner on Center Route.
Eric Whewell styling the corner on Center Route.
At the stance above the ceiling. The foreshortening makes the gear took closer together than it really is. Or maybe not. Photo by Luke Clarke.
At the stance above the ceiling. The foreshortenin...
Jer Collins following P2 of the 'Center Route (5.11a)' on Rincon Wall in 2003. Photo by Tony Bubb.
Jer Collins following P2 of the 'Center Route (5.1...
If you're tall or flexible enough, this wide stem takes a load off you hands.
If you're tall or flexible enough, this wide stem ...
Nice light. Nice stem. Photo by Greg Miller.
Nice light. Nice stem. Photo by Greg Miller.
An unknown (but well-known--I just forgot his name) climber starting the lengthy crux section.
An unknown (but well-known--I just forgot his name...
Get the jugs, then swing around left to a rest. This is 10 something.
Get the jugs, then swing around left to a rest. Th...
Sara Born super psyched.
Sara Born super psyched.
There's a decent rest if you step down. I missed this the first couple of times I tried this route, and tried to rest just above using the undercling, in a very precarious position.
There's a decent rest if you step down. I missed t...
Entering into the crux on Center Route.
Entering into the crux on Center Route.
The crux is getting from the rest to here. Above this it's pumpy mid-10.
The crux is getting from the rest to here. Above t...
Matt, just before the crux.
Matt, just before the crux.

Comments on Center Route Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 6, 2010
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 29, 2001

To reduce the potential for a big ground fall, I recommend placing some Spectra cord around a downward pointing horn of sorts about ten feet above the initial corner. Also, a number 3 Camalot is helpful for backing up the old pin just before the roof.
By Tom Fyffe
Oct 17, 2001

One of my favorite routes in the canyon. A good barometer for your early season crack head.
By Anonymous Coward
Feb 22, 2002

I agree with Tom. A fun route for a crack-head in any season.
By Bryson Slothower
Jun 30, 2002

A little beta for the upper pitches... If you are going to continue after pitch 1 do not move left to the anchor at the top of pitch one, head right to a different bolted anchor at the top of Camouflage and belay there (semi-hanging).

Pitch 2 starts with a tricky 10b move over a bulge above the belay and continues up a right-facing dihedral with raspberry bushes for a 100 feet to a comfortable belay ledge. Protect early on this pitch to avoid landing in your belayers lap (sorry Lindsay) and go in August for the best raspberries.

Pitch 3 cuts left on jugs up and around the corner to a slab (8+). Continue up the slab passing a band of loose rotten rock (5.8S) and belay on the large walk off ledge. Walk off to the left past the finish of Over The Hill.
By Bill Wright
Jul 1, 2002

If you don't want to deal with the semi-hanging belay at the top of the first pitch, with a 60-meter rope you can combine the first two pitches. This makes turning the bulge at the start of the second pitch a bit tougher of course - due to drag and rope weight.
By Joe Collins
Apr 14, 2003
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Harder than your average Eldo 11a
By William McGehee
From: Choctaw, OK
Feb 25, 2004

FUN FUN FUN FUN FUN! It may seem quite the dicey lead, but if you're looking to break on into .11b, definitely give this a shot! Gear is great though it looks bad from the ground and the moves are wonderfully technical.

Roof beta...Beware!!!Drop your left foot back to the left wall onto a smaller ledge, smear your right on up as far as needed to reach the 'horn' on the top of the arete/roof junction to your left. Double up for hands on that one and just swing your legs around the arete to the left. Great moves. After that, just think lieback and give the crux a throw!

~Wm
By Anonymous Coward
Feb 25, 2004

Also fun if you're breaking into 5.11a.
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 18, 2004

I've done both second pitch possibilities. I thought the left was the more dificult and more interesting of the two. However I also remember the fixed andchor at the top of this pitch being a couple of less than inspiring pitons. Any word on the current status of that anchor?
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Feb 22, 2005
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I've looked at this for a couple of years. If you're leading anywhere near this range, don't wait too long, go do it. My impressions:* The gear is much better than it looks.* The 5.9 moves off the ground were harder than they look. BIg hands, but you tip to the right.* The climbing to the ceiling was much easier than it looks.* Exiting left at the ceiling was easy for me, about low 10. A short reach might make it much harder to get the initially jug.* The stance after the ceiling was much worse than I expected. Perhaps long arms would make the undercling comfy (calling Ken Heiser). I eventually was able to settle down a bit here.* The move starting the finger crack was very hard for me. Thin fingers or very long reach would help. William McGhee says "think layback". I thought layback but coudln't figure anything out that would work.* The rest is pumpy with some bad feet. Went too high at first before traversing left.
By XOG
Feb 23, 2005

Took a 15 footer on this back in the mid 90's. Breathing a sigh of relief at my clean fall, I looked up and saw spaghetti rope above me. Moving at my second fastest speed ever (the fastest being falling into 34 degree water while windsurfing), I clipped a nearby pin relic at the speed of light. The rope was my (new) partner's - she told me she'd stored it in a car in Alaska for 1 year and a half. Nice.
By justin dubois
From: Estes Park
Oct 31, 2005

I'd say it's a "first come, first serve" situation up there Adam. There are plenty of other routes on Rincon and if those dudes want to bumble thier way up it, then you'll just have to go huck laps some other day.I'll agree that it is frustrating when it happens, but we've all paid our dues.

cheers.
By Neil Wachowski
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 27, 2009

Just thought I'd add that, after the initial moves, P2 is 5.8-ish and protects very well
By Abram Herman
From: Golden, CO
Apr 4, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Opening moves can easily be protected with a #3 Camalot instead of a #4. Awesome climb!! I didn't think this was much easier than Climb of the Century, but that's probably mostly due to my lack of crack skills.
By Buster Jesik
Apr 6, 2010

Great route, this thing eats stoppers like crazy. I placed a #3 down low, a purple tcu in a horizontal below the roof, and a 0.75 after the crux, the rest were nuts and fixed pins.