Center Route 

Here is another way to reach the worthy summit of Cynical Pinnacle: On pitch three move left to a short, 5.10- finger crack, then hand traverse left to join upper Wunsch's near the end of the dihedral. Watch rope drag, and save a hand-sized piece for the belay. Finish on the bolt ladder- at A0 this finish is easier than "Class Act", the summit pitch from Center Route's false summit. You can rap off the top into the gully behind the formation (in winter its choked with snow, in summer, poison ivy). Or rap to the false summit on Center Route (one rope), and then 2 double rope raps back to the start of the route.

An interesting phenomenon on Cynical Pinnacle is "the stuck rope". It often occurs when climbers aimlessly lower the ends of their rope down a rappel (rather than tossing them, or carrying them down in a butterfly coil when it's windy), or attempt to rappel directly down the Center Route (wondering why there are so many chunks of rope in the crack?). I have some friends who spent 7 hours one cold November eve (in t-shirts!) cutting their stuck rope with a nut tool, so perhaps bring a knife along.

This is absolutely the best 5.9 in the state, and probably one of the best anywhere. The steep, sustained, bomber jams [couldn't] be better. The line is incredible and leads to a fantastic summit. If you have ever seen the cover of the S. Platte guide you will realize why you need to climb this route. Suck up the seemingly endless 1 hour uphill approach and jam your way to heaven!

Frank Stock - I haven't climbed the Center Route, but I did Wunch's Dihedral and rapped to the top of the Center Route. You can get off this climb with a single 60 Meter rope (and probably with a 50). We rapped off the far right of the false summit down a chimneyish slot using the bolted anchor, and then continued into the gully rapping off fixed slings with rap rings. The gully has some spots of poison ivy so it's worth exercising caution, but the walk beat dragging a second rope. In the FWIW category, Wunch's is one of the better climbs I have done.

Awesome variation to the first pitch: just to the left of 5.8 hands is a fist to offwidth to squeeze to finger to hands, crack. Climb it. Surprisingly good. 5.10 I think. Also, a great way to pass those slow parties on the first (who don't realize how hard the second pitch is...) -dmm

Great route. I wish I had triple #1 and #2 Camalots though. I ended up leap-frogging gear. You don't need anything bigger than a #3. Leave the TCUs at home.

Also, wear sturdy shoes. Something board lasted or with a midsole would be good. I wore my Mythos and cried the whole way up.

At least I had shoes. My partner, Nate Adams, left his in the truck and seconded the pitches in his Adidas!

Sustained climbing.

I've never done a better 5.9 in Colorado; rarely done a better climb of any rating, anywhere...Tape is your friend, for sure, even if your technique is spot-on: this thing is sustained!...60-degree days in February are a perfect opportunity to climb this magnificent route before the closure. And cold hands are probably better than summer thunderstorms anyway, quoth the voice of experience.

.........Sustained

I've done this route 3 times over the last few years, with both finishes. I like the finish recommended by Steve Levin the best (move [left] partway through pitch 3). The climbing (10a) into the adjacent dihedral is quite good, though the 5.12 finish is beyond me, the A0 bolt pull is good clean fun. By the way, I'm pretty sure that Paul Sibley did the first ascent of this route, though I can't remember who he said his partner was.

P.S.: it is certainly one of the best climbs of its grade anywhere.

Awesome route. Hard for the grade. I don't think you need a #4 Camalot. The last pitch looks wide but it narrows to about #2 Camalot size in the back. The largest thing I would bring if I did it again would be a #4 Friend. I don't think you need more than one, but bring two if you really want to sew it up. Probably don't need any gear smaller than a #1 Friend. Just letting you know so you don't carry a ton of gear up the lengthy approach!

One of the best climbs in the land.

An outstanding climb and worth the hike up. Also worth it if you get a late start and have to wait in the queue. Regarding the gear comments above, though: don't sweat it if you can't piece together a rack full of #1 and #2 Camalots. This ain't Indian Creek, and stopper (and maybe even hex ...) placements are all over the place on all three pitches. Just toss them at the crack and they seem to stick. I also placed my green *and* blue aliens. YMMV, of course.

Did this route again yesterday. This is one of those that keeps you coming back!! If you are leading both P2 and P3, I think the best plan is to belay in the pod with the mess of slings, and have your second stop short of you to fix their own hanging belay off some cams right at to the old quarter inch bolt. Have them send the rest of the gear up to you, and then take off. I would imagine a rather difficult time to have two people in that pod trying to get organized... other than for the second to just climb past you and start leading. YMMV. Gear wise, I agree with Darin, it really does take up a lot of different sizes if you look for the placements. Having a couple 1s, 2s, and 3s doesn't hurt my feelings though since the route just eats them!

I'm trying not to sound mean spirited here. Please stay off this climb, especially on weekends, if you cannot jam and/or cannot climb 5.9. Be considerate of others as this is a popular route and there aren't too many others of this grade on the formation.

First come first serve. If your fast, get their first and get it done instead of sleeping in and showing up late and whining about the rest of us who might climb at a different speed standard. The whole reason most of us get out there is to get away from the rules and regulations we have to deal with the rest of the week. That's all I need is some guy with a "deadline" when Im trying to take my time and enjoy my climb.

Super route - super physical and super sustained

It's an outstanding route in a spectacular setting. Everything has already been stated above about this route, but I just had to add my two cents worth! The walk up the base of the climb isn't too bad and is well worth the effort. Once you are there you have three great pitches of crack climbing, with the second pitch the longest and most sustained. There are plenty of mid size wire placements in the back of crack so it's easy to protect even if you don't have a triple set of cams. Bring two ropes since the bolts for rapping off the backside are shit. The standard rappel route down the face between the centre route and turf spreader is clean and safe. JFDI.

Joe, we put three people in the pod with the chockstone and slings... It was, well, interesting. Had a couple of Reverso's/B-52's and managed to get three up at the speed of two. I stood on top of the chockstone (loose, but probably ok) and put two #1 Cams in the crack to the left. Not certain if this is synonymous with the site's beta, but we set up the belay after pitch two right at the chockstone. Slings and rings greet you after the crux (for seconding "fun," try the face on the right, 20' or so below the 2nd anchor). DO NOT go off the backside (East side). The rap pins are ok though they 'flex,' but the scramble down is not a whole lot of fun. If you are masochistic and want to do it anyway because it's "Only one rap," after the large chockstone with a grey sling on it (for subsequent rappelling 60' below the base), find a 2' wide, ~20' long crack/chimney/cave to wiggle down. Fun, though narrow. Get to the bottom and crawl out the 'cave' to a scramble through brambles. Not fun.~Wm

My partner belayed in the pod after the bolt on pitch #2. I climbed past him into a pod just above him and he handed up the gear to me. This worked well, gives you a little more room to organize everything.

The mileage description in the South Platte guide was wrong by quite a bit. Coming from road just north of Conifer take a right on the dirt road. Stop at the first pullout on the right. I forget how far the book said to drive but it was a couple miles shorter than that.

This is a great climb, and the best (longest) crack that I've done in Colorado. When I climbed this recently, I used one 70-m rope b/c I heard that you can easily rap off the back into the "ice box" with just one rope. Anyway, long story short-rapping into the ice box is very very bad idea. Bring two ropes and avoid the ice box at all costs!!

Leave the #4 and 3.5 at home you don't need them. You can also rap the route with one 60m rope. It takes a little longer (raps) but you don't need to worry about hauling (and hiking) with up a second rope. Best 5.9+ I've ever done! Dave of The Kirtlands

I didn't notice this the previous time I was on this route, but the chockstone at the top of the second pitch with the slings/ rap rings is loose. Consider this if you decide to incorporate it in your belay anchor or decide to rap off of it.

It seems fine for a straight down pull, but the outward leverage it receives if you use it as a hand hold could dislodge it. It also wobbles a bit when you stand on it. I wouldn't be surprised to see it gone someday soon.

One of my favorite routes in this area of Colorado. The South Platte is beautiful, and the climbing on this pinnacle is clean, straight-forward, and fun. Fairly sustained if I remember correctly.

Has anyone else used the rap off to the backside gully requiring only a 60m rope? I'd love to leave the second rope at home.

Great route. A heck of an approach. Do your stairmaster to train!! Anyone else try the diagonal crack that starts about 50 ft to the right and joins the main line about 50 ft up? It was pretty good start until the dirt and the Bush you have to climb through. This adds about 20-30 feet to the first pitch.

Many years back. I linked the first pitch of Turf Spreader to The Rising Crescendo to Center Route to Class Act. I called the combo "Hot Rise" I think it's in one of the guide books. It is well worth the effort!

Great climb, and it's worth every bit of the steep/loose approach! If you feel up to it, climbing the hand/finger crack variation just above the 2nd belay up to the bolt ladder to gain the real summit is very rewarding.

There is no need to take your pack all the way to the base of the climb. Leave them in the corridor below the climb at the point the trail turns to 4th class (about 25' from the base of the climb). The rappel described below will bring you back to this point.

From the summit, it took 5 raps, with one 70m rope, over the face to get back to the base of the climb. We found good anchor/rap stations for each segment. Some swinging on bely is necessary to reach some of the stations. We made it down with one 70m rope. You could make it down with a 60m, but your last rappel will require some easy 4th class descent.

(Rap 1) From the summit, rap to the false summit anchors. (Rap 2) From the false summit, rap over the face/3rd pitch of Center Route and swing to the right (facing the rock) to the anchor at the top of Turf Spreader. This anchor is 1 bolt and 1 slung chock stone. (Rap 3) From the top of Turf Spreader, rap down and left to a 2 bolt anchor on the face (swing left on decent). (Rap 4) Rap to the 2 bolt anchor below. (Rap 5) Rap to ground.

Found pitch 2 arduous. Found that having a #4 was very helpful in protecting the last, awkward (for me) moves before anchors. Was very happy I had it with me.

This is a great climb....One note, pulling the rope off of the rap on the top can be tough. There is a lot of friction. I would recommend that the 1st one down checks that the rope can be pulled before the second descends. Move the knot accordingly.

Did this route a couple weeks ago with Joe Chorny. This route is awesome from bottom to top! Thanks to everyone here for all the beta.

On the issue of crowds on the route - plan on going during the week. We went on a Tuesday and we were the only ones on the route all day.

On pitch 1 near the top it is possible to step left around the arete and into an easier crack system. The alternative is to layback up and right at what seemed harder than 8. In general P1 and P3 felt hard for 8 and 8+ respectively while P2 at 9+ felt about right.

We had triple 1" and 2" cams and they were useful. If you are a really strong crack climber double cams would probably be fine. Also some good nut placements were available on P2 but difficult to clean, and I even had to leave one.

Pitch lengths are about 120 ft for P1, 110 ft for P2, and 80 ft from P3. The two double rope rap down the front between Center Route and Turf Spreader are clean and pulls pretty well if the knot is moved past the edge.

Great route, but 5.9+ is a sandbag more like 10a every 10 ft I thought crux was over, NOT!!!! great pro

A superb hand crack route. It is certainly strenuous and sustained but the protection is great and you can throw in a piece pretty much anywhere and rest on it if need be. (I had to rest on a .4 camalot near the top of the second pitch to give my feet a break from jamming.)
The third pitch felt quite stiff for 5.8. I used the term "thuggy" to describe it. I did some grunting.

We replaced the webbing and rap ring at the top of the first pitch on 8/8/08. The old stuff there was pretty sketchy.

We rapped with a single 60m (and some swinging) using the great description above by mzellman. It was nice to climb this route with a single 60m rope because rope management in that pod area at the top of P2 would be complicated with double ropes. Those cracks appear to eat ropes frequently.

We added 2 #3 Camalots to our rack and I appreciated having them both for all the pitches. We also carried a #4, but we didn't find it necessary. You will find places to put it, though, if you want.

Great route! Lots of rests and not as strenuous as people have suggested from their posts. Eats gear.

Agree with comments above re the strenuous nature, though on a beautiful feature. Even my usually very strong partner, Al, who climbs at Indian Creek frequently, thought so. We used lots of pieces in the #2 - #3 Cam range, though midsize nuts work in some places as well - don't leave them home! 60m rope works well with the raps as described above by mzellman.

Top of the second pitch is a bit slimy with bird poop. There are 2 pods at the top of the second pitch. It's much more comfy if each climber occupies one pod rather than cramming 2 climbers into one.

DANGER: The chockstone which composes most of the anchor atop pitch 2 is disintegrating as of 11/1/10. I purposely stepped on it because no one was around. The back half fell out immediately. The other half is crumbling and moving back & forth, getting caught in the slings but ripening fast. Do not step on it if your partner is right under you! It's easy to set up a gear anchor. Avoid touching the thing or using its many tempting slings.

When that chockstone goes, I hope nobody is on it, below it, or even near it....

This is one of the best cracks I've climbed in the state. The sustained nature is like that of the desert splitters but on Lump Ridge style granite.

I can see why some felt it was a bit stiffer than 9+, but I don't remember making any moves that were in the 5.10 arena. It just feels harder because it's so sustained (especially the second pitch).

CAMPING: There is excellent FREE camping on FR 550 if you continue to head south on CO 126 past the turn off onto 96 towards the Cathedral Spires. FR 550 is a dirt road that leads to the Buffalo Creek campground and Wellington Lake. The first 4 miles or so of this road is free camping and has excellent sites at that. If you drive all the way to the established campsite and pay $15 to hear some Texan run his generator all night, you're crazy.

One of the best routes I've done in CO and one of the best cracks I've been on at any grade. We did the 5.10 variation into the bolt ladder, and it was spectacular. The summit is worthy! Bring the #4.

The first pitch has no fixed anchor. The 2nd pitch has a fixed sling anchor which is hard to inspect but easily backed up. The scary chockstone should be trundled!! No slings around it, but I could not avoid standing on it. It moves a lot. Somebody should remove this thing on a quiet weekday so no one gets hurt.

IMO, the single-rope rap kinda sucked. Getting passed by parties with 2 ropes and having to wait for rap stations at horrid stances is not a good time.

The chockstone at the top of pitch 2 is no longer an issue. My partner (Darkness) just plucked it out and threw it right down. We climbed this route New Year's Eve day, and it was windy snowy and cold. Needless to say, there was no one around, so it could be done safely. I just don't understand how people were commenting on this chockstone for 11 years. Either way, it's gone now. So, the comments to come will be about the big flake in the nook that will flex when you put gear in it...as of now, it's solid. Thank you everyone above for the great beta. As far as gear goes, I would stress a little more on bigger cams than smaller ones. I was happy to have 3 Camalot #1s and #2s make room for those by leaving doubles of the smaller guys in the car. We did place a #3.5 too. I had an amazing time and ca'nt wait to go back. Replaced some webbing at the top rap.

Did this climb today.

Just a heads up, there is a crazy amount of bird crap on the top of p2, near the second belay.

I'm not normally one to whine about getting a bit dirty, but this is really above and beyond. The wall for 10 or 15 feet below the ledge is a solid caked on layer of white. This also means that on the top of p2 (the crux IMO) you need to jam with one side of your hand on a layer the bird deposits. Surprisingly this doesn't provide nearly the same feeling of secure, locker jams that granite does.

Oh yes, if the wind blows when you're up there, you'll get airborne bird goodness in your eyes and mouth...awesome. Also, on top of the belay ledge (in the same nest) there was a desiccated corpse of a small bird (or a baby, can't tell) along with some larger bird nuggets.

Don't let this deter you from getting on the route, the route itself is phenomenal. Just know what you're getting into, and maybe wear a hazmat suit.

CAUTION: Sat. 9/1/12 - Soon after starting P3, there was a chockstone that seemed like a bomber handhold, and judging by the amount of chalk on it plenty of other climbers thought so too. My partner said he yarded on it, and it seemed solid. When I grabbed it, it let go and rolled toward me, coming to a stop balanced on end just before tumbling out of the crack. I managed to climb back up to it and tried to tuck it farther back into the crack in a less precarious position (couldn't trundle, another climber below me), but be careful in this section!

Bird poo belay is foul, but I've seen worse. Doesn't do your hand jams or your shoe rubber any favors in terms of friction. Sunglasses recommended to keep it out of your eyes. Seriously.

Gear beta 2 cents: triples in 0.75-2 are nice, doubles in others, finger-sized really only necessary on the first pitch, singles of those are plenty. Nothing bigger than 3 seemed really necessary.

Fantastic climb!

About 8' after the bird poop belay, there is a comfy stance with good gear that makes a much better belay than hanging before the bird poop or getting the ebola virus in the bird poop nook proper.