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Chew Tooth
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Center Route S,TR 
Hand Crack T,TR 
Left Route S 
Uncle Fred's Vacation Plan S 

Center Route 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dimitri Barton, 1990
Page Views: 1,452
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jul 4, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Center Route


Climb the center smooth section of the rock, which goes upto a large round jug. If you "cheat" in from the left usingan excellent balancy move, and then pull the balancy mantle,the route is 5.11d and gets two stars. If you dyno up tothe large jug, and then pull the mantle, the route is anexcellent 5.12a. Continue up to the top of the rock, whereone more slightly tough move awaits.


3 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor. Bring a 6' sling if you want to top rope this route. The top bolts are on top of the rock, which is easily accessed from the path.

Photos of Center Route Slideshow Add Photo
If you go straight up, it's 5.12a; if you access the center from the knobs on the left, there's only an 11d mantle to solve.
If you go straight up, it's 5.12a; if yo...
The left line is the .11d route, if you go straight up, it's .12a.
BETA PHOTO: The left line is the .11d route, if you go straigh...
Center Route, Chew Tooth.
Center Route, Chew Tooth.
Comments on Center Route Add Comment
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By Bruce Morris
From: Belmont, CA
Aug 23, 2006

Dimitri Barton did the FA of this route in 1990.

By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Jan 16, 2010

An important looking hold seems to have broken on this one. It's the one the guy's left hand is on in the beta photo submitted by Bruce Morris. This appears to have happened some time ago, and by the looks of it, someone made a (failed) effort to glue the hold back on.

Despite this, the route may still go. I couldn't pull it off but that certainly doesn't mean that one of you hard-persons couldn't do it.

Or it may be that this hold has been broken for a while and the hold in question was of little or no value.