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If you go straight up, it's 5.12a; if yo...
Climb the center smooth section of the rock, which goes upto a large round jug. If you "cheat" in from the left usingan excellent balancy move, and then pull the balancy mantle,the route is 5.11d and gets two stars. If you dyno up tothe large jug, and then pull the mantle, the route is anexcellent 5.12a. Continue up to the top of the rock, whereone more slightly tough move awaits.
3 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor. Bring a 6' sling if you want to top rope this route. The top bolts are on top of the rock, which is easily accessed from the path.
BETA PHOTO: The left line is the .11d route, if you go straigh...
Center Route, Chew Tooth.
|By Bruce Morris|
From: Belmont, CA
Aug 23, 2006
Dimitri Barton did the FA of this route in 1990.
|By Daniel Trugman|
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Jan 16, 2010
An important looking hold seems to have broken on this one. It's the one the guy's left hand is on in the beta photo submitted by Bruce Morris. This appears to have happened some time ago, and by the looks of it, someone made a (failed) effort to glue the hold back on.
Despite this, the route may still go. I couldn't pull it off but that certainly doesn't mean that one of you hard-persons couldn't do it.
Or it may be that this hold has been broken for a while and the hold in question was of little or no value.