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Routes in Goat Rock
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Backside Bouldering V0 4 |
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Bowling Bawl V1 5 |
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Center Route TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Corner Route T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c X |
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Dragon's Breath TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Goat Rock Traverse V4 6B |
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Great Roof, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Swiss Cheese T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Triple Overhang TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Yodel King, The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | TR, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 4,736 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Melissa Moore on Oct 5, 2001 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Description
The Center Route starts just to the right of the tree under the roof, where the pitch of the slab becomes a bit steeper. There are tons of good pockets on this climb, making it pretty uncomplicated. Be smooth and careful when lowering your partner down, as the rock isn't completely vertical in all spots - there are some protrusions that hurt a LOT to smack into if your belayer abruptly stops (unfortunately known from personal experience). This is a fun climb for a warm up or new climbers.
Protection
To set up the toprope for this route some very long webbing (~30') is in order. I put some webbing around the base of the tree at the top of the rock, and used quickdraws to hang it over the top of the climb to minimize drag. There is one bolt at the top of the climb, but it's about 6' back so you'll probably want a sling so you can equalize with the webbing.
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