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Center Route P3 Variation
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.7 from 23
votes
Routes in Cynical Pinnacle
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50 Shades of Green S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Amy, Good Gorilla T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Buffaloes in Space T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Center Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Center Route P1 Variation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Center Route P3 Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Class Act T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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CMC Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Don't Fear The Boogie Man T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Green Piece T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Hand Job (aka West Face) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hand Job Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lost at Sea T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Monkey in the Forest T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Off-width Route TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Only the Lonely S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Rap Crack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Rising Crescendo or Serpentine Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Rubber Ducky T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rubber Ducky P2 T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Tough Turf T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Turf Spreader T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Twist O' Flex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Wunsch's Dihedral T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Roger Briggs,1975 |
| Page Views: | 3,123 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Ralph Swansen on Aug 9, 2015 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
2023 info: jeffco.us/1531/Alerts-Closures
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Description
This pitch is a fine option for those that want to summit but are not feeling the. 11b (Class Act).
Chimney up the start of the third pitch. When the hand crack appears on the left, follow it up (crux) and out left around the arête. This leads to a leftward traverse which dumps you above the difficult moves of the third pitch of Wunsch's. Continue up Wunsch's to the base of the bolt ladder.
I was surprised to find no bolted anchor at the base of the bolt ladder as there is no place for a trad anchor unless you have a #4 (combined with the first bolt of the ladder) or build an uncomfortable belay where Wunsch's dumps you out onto the platform. I girth hitched the rope to the first two bolts and setup a belay off that.
Before belaying my partner, I had to descend to the last piece I placed and remove it so that I could get the rope out of the crack as it was just fully stuck. The crack just doesn't let the rope run up it. I was able to sit back off the anchor and pull the rope up over the edge of the rock without it falling back into the crack.
Chimney up the start of the third pitch. When the hand crack appears on the left, follow it up (crux) and out left around the arête. This leads to a leftward traverse which dumps you above the difficult moves of the third pitch of Wunsch's. Continue up Wunsch's to the base of the bolt ladder.
I was surprised to find no bolted anchor at the base of the bolt ladder as there is no place for a trad anchor unless you have a #4 (combined with the first bolt of the ladder) or build an uncomfortable belay where Wunsch's dumps you out onto the platform. I girth hitched the rope to the first two bolts and setup a belay off that.
Before belaying my partner, I had to descend to the last piece I placed and remove it so that I could get the rope out of the crack as it was just fully stuck. The crack just doesn't let the rope run up it. I was able to sit back off the anchor and pull the rope up over the edge of the rock without it falling back into the crack.
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