|Deer Ridge Buttress
Center Left Face is a highly overlooked, beautiful climb.
P1. Start at a hard to locate (tons of flakes and cracks) dual cracks. Fun pitch.
P2. Then head right to a big, broken, right-facing corner.
Pitch 3 is reeely good if you like #4 Camalot sized slots. Wow! Route finding was a bit strange at the end of this pitch. I went right around the roof and headed up a right-facing corner (watch rope drag!) to a uncomfortable but airy belay.
Pitch 4 step right and crank the bitchin', cool, open book for a full.
Yeah, it's a haul up to this rock, but it's worth it.
Bring a standard rack and at least one or two #4 Camalots for pitch 3.
|By J. Thompson|
From: denver, co
Jan 27, 2002
Yup this is a good route. Pitches 3 and 4 are super good. Pitch 4 has cracks that are soooo good! P.S. I climbed this route with Paco- he thought he gave me the crappy pitches! Sucker!!
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 16, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
P1&2 can be combined- 60m total.
P3 doesn't have to go up the big corner at first- you can avoid the blocky part by fact climbing out ot the right to some intermittent cracks, then clip an old fixed KB in the middle of nowhere, then traverse up and left (no pro, 5.10, R) to intersect the corner at the crux. This might feel pretty hard if you are short. Get into the corner and place an Alien then do the second crux moves....
Instead of belaying right away continue upward.
P4 + the climb off (AKA: P5) can be combined as a single 60m pitch.
Bottom to top in 3 long pitches, and no junky corner or slot.
Pitch 2 automatically disqualfies the climb from 4-star status, but most of the rest was pretty good. A 2-3 star climb overall.