|Hoosier Pass/Lincoln Fall
This is a fun and easy little route that starts just right of a hanging column of ice to the right of Scottish Gully, in the middle of the flows, Center Flow, and slightly down hill from the Right Flow.
The first section is steep, near vert and climbs for about 30' to a lower angle ledge system. From there the route turns slightly to climbers left and continues up another very steep section for another 30' or so before easing off to a lower angle ice slab heading towards some trees.
You can belay from the trees, living as of December, 2008. Bring up your second and then stow your rope and climb another 70' pitch of low angle ice that brings you above the WI4 Right Flow pillar. Walk off to the right (north) and back down to the start.
Center part of the Ice Falls area, between Scottish Gully and Main Flow Right.
Ice screws, even the longest ones will work here depending on the thickness of the ice of course. I used a 60m rope and made it to the trees where I belayed. (see yellow/blue circle in route photo.) Anchor with slings low on the trees.
Mark Cushman leading the start of Center Flow slab...
This is where the route takes a slight turn to the...
Eric following Mark Cushman on Center Flow Slab.
Me starting the CFS. Photo by Scott Borger, www....
Finishing the top of the first section on this rou...
BETA PHOTO: Lower half of CFS. Andy Leach belays me.
|By Buff Johnson|
Dec 15, 2008
You can mix it at the start and take a pillar from WI4- to M6/7 WI6 depending on conditions; with the harder starts, most just belay from screws or a set of bolts on the left and make it a 2 pitch climb continuing up on the right of the main headwall as well instead of traversing out.