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Center Direct
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.6 from 14 votes
Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | Eric Beck, Jerry and John Hooper, Steve Mckinney, and Milo Pradonovitch |
Page Views: | 3,488 total · 25/month |
Shared By: | bspiewak on Nov 29, 2012 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Advisory
Details
Please avoid raptor nests. El Cajon Mountain- Golden Eagles nested successfully at this site in 2009, after relocating twice between alternate nest sites. The Golden Eagle nest at El Cajon Mountain was not successful in Spring 2010. This nest was successful and fledged young in 2011 - 2021. Details from USFS posted here: fs.usda.gov/detail/clevelan…
The El Cajon Mountain climbing area is in close proximity to the San Diego River Park Foundation property. This property's purpose is to protect and conserve San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife in perpetuity. Specifically, the San Diego River Park Foundation are protecting golden eagles that nest in the area and ceanothus, a California lilac that is an endemic sensitive plant species. Please avoid and limit recreational activities at the San Diego River Park Foundation property to promote San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife. Thank you!
The El Cajon Mountain climbing area is in close proximity to the San Diego River Park Foundation property. This property's purpose is to protect and conserve San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife in perpetuity. Specifically, the San Diego River Park Foundation are protecting golden eagles that nest in the area and ceanothus, a California lilac that is an endemic sensitive plant species. Please avoid and limit recreational activities at the San Diego River Park Foundation property to promote San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife. Thank you!
Description
A steep, imposing, and intimidating line that breeches the tallest part of the wall.
"This was the first route on the rock and originally involved some aid. The second ascent freed it at 5.7 or so. It follows a generally direct line to the apex of the triangle." - Crags and Boulders of San Diego County '78.
An absolutely proud line for ~1965 for sure. I'm not as sure about the 5.7 or so free grade.
The bottom center of The Wedge is dominated by a large black roof and a prominent right facing corner system. The Headwall is marked by a right trending crack system that exits the upper right side of the headwall. Together they allow the easiest means of climbing through the center of The Wedge.
The central base of the wall is guarded by a 100' high, broken, blocky junk pile. On the right side of this, directly below the big black roof 125' above, a right facing corner system begins.
Pitch 1. Follow the right facing corner/crack system until it becomes the roof that forces you to traverse out right and down at times. When the crack ends two bolts above protects 5.11 moves, or, continue further right and up through blocky 5.6 terrain. Belay off a pair of bolts out right. to 3". 5.9 60'
Pitch 2. Climb back left into the orange stained corner where a bolt protects the moves out left. Skip the 90' rap anchor above the orange corner and continue up and right on to the 4 bolt slab under the roof. The pitch ends at the bolted belay on Being and Nothingness. bolted. 5.10 70'
Pitch 3. Climb past the first three bolts then step left into the steep thin corner. At about 90' a bolted rap anchor appears on the left, skip this anchor and continue on up the large, highly fractured corner above. Belay off bolts on the killer ledge atop the Center Block. thin to 3". 5.10 125'
Pitch 4. Off the Center Block climb out to the left and up over the break in the roof above. Ignore the two bolt anchor above the roof (Black Castle belay) and continue up the ramp to the right 25' to the bolted belay on a sloping ledge. to 2". 5.9 75'
Pitch 5. A bolt off the belay protects the powerful moves guarding the entrance into the easier headwall exit crack above. Steep, chunky face climbing with crack pro climbs past an old relic of a piton. At the shallow ledge you encounter traverse right 10' to the base of a dihedral. Climb the corner above (5.9+) or step out right on the bolted arete of Edge of Reason (5.10). The bolted anchor above marks the end of the difficulties. Easy climbing above takes you to the top of The Wedge, with 1/2"-4" belay options. to 3". 5.10 125'
Descent: Several options exist.
A.) From the bolts atop pitch 5, rap back down the bolted arete, continuing down the Edge of Reason/Being and Nothingness rappels, ending back near the start.
B.) Walk off to the West Ledges Descent.
C.) Rap the Commanders anchors.
"This was the first route on the rock and originally involved some aid. The second ascent freed it at 5.7 or so. It follows a generally direct line to the apex of the triangle." - Crags and Boulders of San Diego County '78.
An absolutely proud line for ~1965 for sure. I'm not as sure about the 5.7 or so free grade.
The bottom center of The Wedge is dominated by a large black roof and a prominent right facing corner system. The Headwall is marked by a right trending crack system that exits the upper right side of the headwall. Together they allow the easiest means of climbing through the center of The Wedge.
The central base of the wall is guarded by a 100' high, broken, blocky junk pile. On the right side of this, directly below the big black roof 125' above, a right facing corner system begins.
Pitch 1. Follow the right facing corner/crack system until it becomes the roof that forces you to traverse out right and down at times. When the crack ends two bolts above protects 5.11 moves, or, continue further right and up through blocky 5.6 terrain. Belay off a pair of bolts out right. to 3". 5.9 60'
Pitch 2. Climb back left into the orange stained corner where a bolt protects the moves out left. Skip the 90' rap anchor above the orange corner and continue up and right on to the 4 bolt slab under the roof. The pitch ends at the bolted belay on Being and Nothingness. bolted. 5.10 70'
Pitch 3. Climb past the first three bolts then step left into the steep thin corner. At about 90' a bolted rap anchor appears on the left, skip this anchor and continue on up the large, highly fractured corner above. Belay off bolts on the killer ledge atop the Center Block. thin to 3". 5.10 125'
Pitch 4. Off the Center Block climb out to the left and up over the break in the roof above. Ignore the two bolt anchor above the roof (Black Castle belay) and continue up the ramp to the right 25' to the bolted belay on a sloping ledge. to 2". 5.9 75'
Pitch 5. A bolt off the belay protects the powerful moves guarding the entrance into the easier headwall exit crack above. Steep, chunky face climbing with crack pro climbs past an old relic of a piton. At the shallow ledge you encounter traverse right 10' to the base of a dihedral. Climb the corner above (5.9+) or step out right on the bolted arete of Edge of Reason (5.10). The bolted anchor above marks the end of the difficulties. Easy climbing above takes you to the top of The Wedge, with 1/2"-4" belay options. to 3". 5.10 125'
Descent: Several options exist.
A.) From the bolts atop pitch 5, rap back down the bolted arete, continuing down the Edge of Reason/Being and Nothingness rappels, ending back near the start.
B.) Walk off to the West Ledges Descent.
C.) Rap the Commanders anchors.
4 Comments