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 ADVANCED
Center/Headwall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Being and Nothingness S 
Black Castle S 
Center Direct T 
Commander, The S 
Diamond of San Diego S 
Halcyon S 
Right as Rain T,S 
Spitfire T 
Storm T,S 
Swiftness Direct T,S 
Swiftness, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

Center Direct 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 450'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Eric Beck, Jerry and John Hooper, Steve Mckinney, and Milo Pradonovitch
Page Views: 1,185
Submitted By: bspiewak on Nov 29, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Last moves of last pitch. Amazing climb!

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A steep, imposing, and intimidating line that breeches the tallest part of the wall.
"This was the first route on the rock and originally involved some aid. The second ascent freed it at 5.7 or so. It follows a generally direct line to the apex of the triangle." - Crags and Boulders of San Diego County '78.
An absolutely proud line for ~1965 for sure. I'm not as sure about the 5.7 or so free grade.
The bottom center of The Wedge is dominated by a large black roof and a prominent right facing corner system. The Headwall is marked by a right trending crack system that exits the upper right side of the headwall. Together they allow the easiest means of climbing through the center of The Wedge.
The central base of the wall is guarded by a 100' high, broken, blocky junk pile. On the right side of this, directly below the big black roof 125' above, a right facing corner system begins.

Pitch 1. Follow the right facing corner/crack system until it becomes the roof that forces you to traverse out right and down at times. When the crack ends two bolts above protects 5.11 moves, or, continue further right and up through blocky 5.6 terrain. Belay off a pair of bolts out right. to 3". 5.9 60'

Pitch 2. Climb back left into the orange stained corner where a bolt protects the moves out left. Skip the 90' rap anchor above the orange corner and continue up and right on to the 4 bolt slab under the roof. The pitch ends at the bolted belay on Being and Nothingness. bolted. 5.10 70'

Pitch 3. Climb past the first three bolts then step left into the steep thin corner. At about 90' a bolted rap anchor appears on the left, skip this anchor and continue on up the large, highly fractured corner above. Belay off bolts on the killer ledge atop the Center Block. thin to 3". 5.10 125'

Pitch 4. Off the Center Block climb out to the left and up over the break in the roof above. Ignore the two bolt anchor above the roof (Black Castle belay) and continue up the ramp to the right 25' to the bolted belay on a sloping ledge. to 2". 5.9 75'

Pitch 5. A bolt off the belay protects the powerful moves guarding the entrance into the easier headwall exit crack above. Steep, chunky face climbing with crack pro climbs past an old relic of a piton. At the shallow ledge you encounter traverse right 10' to the base of a dihedral. Climb the corner above (5.9+) or step out right on the bolted arete of Edge of Reason (5.10). The bolted anchor above marks the end of the difficulties. Easy climbing above takes you to the top of The Wedge, with 1/2"-4" belay options. to 3". 5.10 125'


Descent: Several options exist.

A.) From the bolts atop pitch 5, rap back down the bolted arete, continuing down the Edge of Reason/Being and Nothingness rappels, ending back near the start.

B.) Walk off to the West Ledges Descent.

C.) Rap the Commanders anchors.

Protection 

Tiny to 3". Doubles to 2". Long runners.


Photos of Center Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 3 Center Block Splitter!
Pitch 3 Center Block Splitter!
Center Direct   Pitch 1
Center Direct Pitch 1
Center Direct
BETA PHOTO: Center Direct
CD Topo
BETA PHOTO: CD Topo
Top of P3.
Top of P3.
Center Direct Start
BETA PHOTO: Center Direct Start
Last pitch of Center Direct. One of the best 5.10s...
Last pitch of Center Direct. One of the best 5.10s...

Comments on Center Direct Add Comment
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By Ryan-G
From: San Diego
Nov 18, 2014

Any extra info on this for someone pushing their grade? Does the PG13 come at cruxes, gear, or runout bolts? I know it takes the fun out of it, but...