Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Astrophysics T 
Bolt Cola S 
Center Direct T 
Charisma S 
Cold Fusion T,S 
Eagles Are People Too T 
Erickson's Crack T 
Get Shorty T,S 
Lichen To Like T 
October Surprise T 
On Ballet T 
Orange Corner T 
Reamer, The T 
Resolution T 
Shimmer S 
Simmer S 
Slimmer T 
Talon Contest T 
Where Eagles Dare T 

Center Direct 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dean Moore and Charles Alexander, 1962/ FFA: Reveley and Erickson, 1974
Page Views: 457
Submitted By: CHRIS.T on Oct 15, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start 15-20 feet up the gully from the start of "Where Eagles Dare".

Pitch 1: Climb 15 feet up a slab/arete to a good cam placement, then traverse left across a beautiful slab to the crux overhang on "Where Eagles Dare", but take the horizontal finger crack out left and over a bulge (5.9+). Continue up and left over a somewhat unprotected slab with a finger rail seam to a right-facing corner/notch. Belay at a old piton and a bolt (back it up). Look up to observe the large, old eagle's nest that looms above you.

Pitch 2: Climb up and right through a diagonal offwidth crack then traverse straight right around a bulge. Belay at two bolts (same anchor as Where Eagles Dare).

Pitch 3: Go left to a corner and climb a fridge-like block, place a small nut or RP in a dirty seam. Climb up and right to a shallow corner just below a huge, orange dihedral that goes diagonally left (5.8+ s). Climb this corner/roof crack to its end (5.9+), then join an easy, short slab/corner to a huge walk-off ledge.

Descend the ledge west (4th class) or rappel from anchors at the top of other routes along the way.

A few of my variations are different than the description of this route in Rossiter's guidebook.


Protection 

Gear to 4 inches with small nuts, RPs, and long runners.



Comments on Center Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -