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Center Direct 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dean Moore and Charles Alexander, 1962/ FFA: Reveley and Erickson, 1974
Page Views: 446
Submitted By: CHRIS.T on Oct 15, 2003
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  • Description 

    Start 15-20 feet up the gully from the start of "Where Eagles Dare".

    Pitch 1: Climb 15 feet up a slab/arete to a good cam placement, then traverse left across a beautiful slab to the crux overhang on "Where Eagles Dare", but take the horizontal finger crack out left and over a bulge (5.9+). Continue up and left over a somewhat unprotected slab with a finger rail seam to a right-facing corner/notch. Belay at a old piton and a bolt (back it up). Look up to observe the large, old eagle's nest that looms above you.

    Pitch 2: Climb up and right through a diagonal offwidth crack then traverse straight right around a bulge. Belay at two bolts (same anchor as Where Eagles Dare).

    Pitch 3: Go left to a corner and climb a fridge-like block, place a small nut or RP in a dirty seam. Climb up and right to a shallow corner just below a huge, orange dihedral that goes diagonally left (5.8+ s). Climb this corner/roof crack to its end (5.9+), then join an easy, short slab/corner to a huge walk-off ledge.

    Descend the ledge west (4th class) or rappel from anchors at the top of other routes along the way.

    A few of my variations are different than the description of this route in Rossiter's guidebook.


    Protection 

    Gear to 4 inches with small nuts, RPs, and long runners.



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