Center Dihedral 

This is an excellent just under a half day outing on good rock with a mountaineering feel to it. The first two pitches comprise the best climbing. It can turn into a grad IV if you have trouble route finding, however, but not too bad.

I need better topo. Do you have the GPS for it?

Loc, it's accessed from the crags trail on the west side of Pike's Peak. It's on the way to Cripple Creek, just after the east side of Mueller State Park, left side of HWY 67. I believe there is a brown sign pointing the turn off the highway.

Great topo, Stich! especially for as confusing as this route can be. The crack to the left is a good 5.9 alternative as well.

The alternate pitch 2 is one of the best granite 5.9 pitches I have done.

Thanks for posting this climb, Stich. I thought it was a bit sand bagged at 5.8. There seemed to be a couple sections of 5.9 to me. We tried to turn the roof but couldn't do it. We ended up going up the wide crack to the left, then rapping down about 30ft to continue the climb. We used a 70m rope and made it to the ledge under the roof in one pitch.

Absolutely agree classic Pike's Peak rock. There are some excellent one pitch climbs climber's right of the slabs on the pinnacle; I have done multiple variations up the center and they vary from 5.8 to 5.9 never harder than that and all excellent. To note, across the valley are some other excellent one pitch classics as well, God's Rock or Crag can't remember the name. There is no topo that I'm aware of, but they are on excellent rock and have some great adventure climbing.

A couple of things from my recent trip:
This is not 5.8 - no argument about it. I am not an amazing climber, but I can't remember falling on anything less than 5.10 is the last few years. The cracks require some crack skill to make them 5.8/5.9ish. However, when you get to the roof...it will take some more advanced moves. The pro is smaller, and the crack on the top of roof has some suspect smaller rocks in it. It held for me, but I don't know if that will always be the case. You will want small cams here. I normally climb with a lot of passive gear and use cams for the bigger stuff. I didn't take any C3s & regretted it at the roof. I ended up aiding the roof. The moves through the roof were finger-size but fine. However, I for the life of me could not pull the move out of it. I was leading the whole thing & was prob a bit tired, but I could not pull myself out of the roof on the small finger crack above it (#6 BD nut). Further, if you fall - there is a really nice, pointy, detached flake to land on....

The hike off is easy and fairly straightforward. Great description for this section.

For the approach, I didn't really find a trail, I just cut over once I was close the the tower & walked straight uphill. I am sure there is a better way, but nobody has posted it yet.

I ended up doing it in 5 pitches. Mainly because of rope drag. This is a great climb & a hidden gem for those of us in COS. I plan on doing it again soon with a more experienced partner to see if it feels any easier when I know I have another solid leader with me. The main point is, do not be fooled by the 5.8 rating or 5.9 consensus. There are some tricky parts to this climb. Nothing a pair of 5.10 climbers can't knock out (even if you have to aid the roof). However, I think the 5.8, half day climb description is a bit irresponsible.

Here is a map I made on Google. Take it for what it is worth.

My Google Map.

Did this route with Keith (above) today and was pleasantly surprised at the quality and length of the route. A nice moderate - exciting 4 pitch climb that close to home is a great resource and the surrounding area looks great too.

We scrambled up the due west side to get to the first belay station on 5.4-5.5 rock for about 150ft which I am sure can be navigated another way, but we didn't see any obvious path. If you are comfortable with 5.5 granite slab, don't bother with roping up as it is way quicker and not really exposed to get to the belay ledge.

I agree with earlier comments: The first two pitches are definitely the most cruiser with great crack moves and good pro. We got to the base of the roof on a fantastic ledge in two pitches, one long and a second short one because we had a 60m rope. You can definitely link the two together with a 70m, but you will have some intense rope drag, not from placements, but from the nature of the route and rock you go over.

I agree with Keith, the roof is definitely sandbagged at 5.8. That is easily a 10c-11 move out from under the roof with a serious potential for injury if you fall. I'd also suggest a helmet for this move as a leader and a follower as the footing is slick and a fall by either end up with your head swinging into the roof edge. The crack that circumnavigates the roof on the left is certainly easier, maybe 5.8 big hands and fists, but it is my understanding this is not the actual route. Either way, it looked great and for those who don't want to deal with the roof moves, its a great alternate route.

The top was traversy but easy and protection was great. All in all a fantastic climb, one I will definitely revisit, and we were car to car in just under 6 hours. Bring a #4 and #3 for sure and some C3s #00-2 for the roof.

I found this climb to be top notch for the Springs area! Fun and varied climbing with spectacular views. However, I have climbed this route twice now, and I am glad to see the consensus going up. I found the move out of the roof to be very, very tricky. Even after I trained and came back at it in better shape, I still had to pull on a piece to get it. There is certainly potential for a dangerous fall onto the flake below the roof, but as long as your pro holds (unlike mine), you shouldn't hit it (like me). The roof move I say goes at 5.10+, but the rest of the route is more like 5.8/5.9 unless you are not used to crack climbing, in which case it will seem harder. The trickiest part is not placing pro where you want your hands to be.
Unless you are a fast hiker and very efficient multi-pitcher, I would budget a full day for this one, especially if you want to avoid any chance of hitting the afternoon storms that frequent this elevation.

Phil, this weekend was my second time too. I completely agree with you. I have worked my ass off on that roof twice now. Getting out from underneath it with the one worthless finger hold is impossible(at my skill level). I have pulled on gear both times now. I have also had my gear come out both times now. I have also decked both times now.... I emailed a moderator to encourage an update on beta for this climb. Listing it as a 5.8 half-day event is irresponsible. Casey & I went door to door from the higher parking lot (the pay one) in six hours. We were trying to hurry though as I had an appointment. This is a fantastic climb, but budget all day so you can be confident & not have to worry storms or the sun setting....

One of my favorite CO Springs area climbs. The rock was bomber and every pitch had some burl to it. Thanks, Tim!