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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Celestial Gate 
Center Dihedral 
Days of Heaven 
Desolation Angels 
Greensleeves 
Hats Off 
Heavenly Daze 
Multiple Blues 
Nameless Demons 
Original Sin 
Rope Rider 
Telekinesis 
Wasp, The 

Center Dihedral 

5.10d

   
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Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet
Consensus: 5.10c/d [details]
FA: D. Hare & A. Sharp, 1981
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Aug 14, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

Center Dihedral has some pretty good and interesting climbing, and it is certainly worthy of more traffic than it apparently gets.

P1: Begin a short ways to the right of Days of Heaven and climb up some large, loose blocks to a ledge below an overhang that leads to a small dihedral. Pull this overhang (well protected with a #2 Camalot, 10a). Walk right on a foot ledge to a thin crack. Follow this up to the base of the dihedral and belay.

P2: Climb the dihedral with stemming, liebacks, and tricky gear. A soft 10d.


Protection 

SR. A #4 Camalot is unnecessary.



Comments on Center Dihedral Add Comment
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 16, 2004
rating: 5.10c

The route has great moves but needs more cleaning. The second pitch is the better of the two. With a 60+m rope and a healthy rack and set of slings (five 2' slings & lots of 1' slings) you can probably master this as a single pitch. The sugestion to climb this with a #4 cam is not a bad one, but the route can be adequately protected without anything bigger than 2.5". The #4 would take the place of the 2.5" shoved way back in and a 1" under a funky flake at the top of the 4" section. The funky vertical dike to the right makes the climb interesting and unique. This has great moves on mostly good stone. It needs a little more cleaning, and the grade might get softer by one more letter still.

By S. Kimball
Aug 27, 2005
rating: 5.10d

If this is dirty go to Scotland, clean steep and three star, what the F!!! bring the #4.

By Ross Keller
From: Parker, CO
May 11, 2009
rating: 5.10c

No reason not to do this as 1 pitch. The line is pretty direct and it's only about 125' high. Quality climb on mostly good stone.

By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Jun 13, 2011
rating: 5.10d

You might want to consider bringing a #2 ball nut for after the wide crack. I thought these were the crux moves, or maybe that was the pump from fiddling in RPs.

Yes, the #4 is optional and the rock is still a little dirty.