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Center Dihedral has some pretty good and interesting climbing, and it is certainly worthy of more traffic than it apparently gets.
P1: Begin a short ways to the right of Days of Heaven and climb up some large, loose blocks to a ledge below an overhang that leads to a small dihedral. Pull this overhang (well protected with a #2 Camalot, 10a). Walk right on a foot ledge to a thin crack. Follow this up to the base of the dihedral and belay.
P2: Climb the dihedral with stemming, liebacks, and tricky gear. A soft 10d.
SR. A #4 Camalot is unnecessary.
|Comments on Center Dihedral
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 16, 2004
The route has great moves but needs more cleaning. The second pitch is the better of the two. With a 60+m rope and a healthy rack and set of slings (five 2' slings & lots of 1' slings) you can probably master this as a single pitch. The sugestion to climb this with a #4 cam is not a bad one, but the route can be adequately protected without anything bigger than 2.5". The #4 would take the place of the 2.5" shoved way back in and a 1" under a funky flake at the top of the 4" section. The funky vertical dike to the right makes the climb interesting and unique. This has great moves on mostly good stone. It needs a little more cleaning, and the grade might get softer by one more letter still.
|By S. Kimball|
Aug 27, 2005
If this is dirty go to Scotland, clean steep and three star, what the F!!! bring the #4.
|By Ross Keller|
From: Parker, CO
May 11, 2009
No reason not to do this as 1 pitch. The line is pretty direct and it's only about 125' high. Quality climb on mostly good stone.
|By Guy H.|
From: Fort Collins CO
Jun 13, 2011
You might want to consider bringing a #2 ball nut for after the wide crack. I thought these were the crux moves, or maybe that was the pump from fiddling in RPs.
Yes, the #4 is optional and the rock is still a little dirty.