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Deer Leap
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Black Wonton, The 
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Center Crack 
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Standard Route 

Center Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Arni Kirbach and Carl Acker
Page Views: 2,008
Submitted By: Mike Baetz on Mar 22, 2008
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Jeff on a blustery October day

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Description 

Climb the beautiful finger crack to two possible finishes, left or right, both ending at bolted anchors. Crux is just after the large block about 25' up.


Location 

Start about 40' right and down from the left side of the cliff at a slanting finger crack.


Protection 

standard rack



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By Eli Kramer
From: Saratoga Springs, NY
Oct 22, 2009
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

I would give this 5.7+ for the sustained difficulty of the climb without the kind of rests one often expects. Spectacular finger crack with thin feet in places. The route finishes on the right after the split, the left is the 5.8 direct finish. Worth a visit to the cliff on its own.

By Matt Conroy
Oct 24, 2009

Actually the left crack mentioned above is 5.7 as well. The direct finish jogs left further down (about 2/3 of the way up) and then turns right again before reaching the anchors. I do agree with the 5.7+ though.