Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
Centaur is a spectacular and varied route on the right side of the Prow of Tower Two, which parallels the last pitches of the Naked Edge and Diving Board. The steep corner and roof pitch was first aid climbed (A3) in 1967. Two decades later (late 1980s or early 1990s) it was retro-bolted as a sport pitch, but it hadn't been freed.
Climb the first 5 pitches of Redguard (easily combined into 3 pitches). Traverse 15 feet left on the maroon band (loose) to a sloping belay with one good bolt, one bad bolt, and gear. Looming above is a steep corner and roof with bolts.
P1: Struggle up the overhanging corner (bizarre body English) to the roof. Burly underclings with poor feet lead to liebacks, tips jams, and a deceptively tricky exit to the old hanging belay. [*Bad gear, an uncomfortable stance, and no pro for the next 15 feet make this a poor belay.] Shake out here, then tackle the short, red roof to a no-hands stance at the first protection bolt of the last pitch.
P2: An amazing pitch, first freed by Christian Griffith in 1986. Ascend the vertical face past several old bolts (need replacement) and gear to a striking seam in a hanging plaque of stone. Jam, crimp, and paste your way up the seam (RPs, tiny cams) to a steep finish in a dihedral. It is best to belay at a tree 40 feet beyond the lip of the wall.