A neat little crag that sees little traffic, probably in part because it's so damn hard to find. Most of the routes are short (~35 feet) the rock could be cleaned more, and it's probably best to toprope than risk trying to find sparse gear opportunities. (How about that for a stirring introduction??).
This blocky, downward sloping rock has a sharp arete with a massive dihedral as its defining shape. Toprope access and descent is via a chimney on the north end of the west face.
Bring some long slings and have fun!
L->R
A. Going Down In it?, 9+ X, 1p, 40', min gear. B. Ethereal, 9, 1p, 35', gear. C. Apparition, 11-, 1p, 35', bolts & gear. D. Phantasm, 11, 1p, 35', bolts. E. Right To Life, 10, 1p, 35', gear. F. Phaedra, 11 R, 1p, 35', gear. G. Euphoria?, 11 R, 1p, 35', gear. H. Up Above It?, 10+, 1p, 35', gear. I. Five Eight Crack, 8, 1p, 30', gear.
Getting There
It is basically impossible to see driving east. 11.5 miles up the canyon and about 3/10ths of a mile past Castle Rock, you'll see a no parking sign for a parking area on the right side, with another no parking sign for the left side 50 yards further (facing west). Pass this, and then find a place to turn around - you've missed it. Best place to park is on the south side of the road 100 yards west of the second no parking sign. It lies on the north side of the road (it will be obvious to see once you're driving east), with about a 5 minute hike up a non-existent trail.
Climb right in the main, enormous dihedral of the crag. You can stick right next to the left wall the entire way, or take a variation 2' to the right that can be climbed from the same anchor. The rock is cleaner than it looks....[more]Browse More Classics in CO
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