2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
A neat little crag that sees little traffic, probably in part because it's so damn hard to find. Most of the routes are short (~35 feet) the rock could be cleaned more, and it's probably best to toprope than risk trying to find sparse gear opportunities. (How about that for a stirring introduction??).
This blocky, downward sloping rock has a sharp arete with a massive dihedral as its defining shape. Toprope access and descent is via a chimney on the north end of the west face.
It is basically impossible to see driving east. 11.5 miles up the canyon and about 3/10ths of a mile past Castle Rock, you'll see a no parking sign for a parking area on the right side, with another no parking sign for the left side 50 yards further (facing west). Pass this, and then find a place to turn around - you've missed it. Best place to park is on the south side of the road 100 yards west of the second no parking sign. It lies on the north side of the road (it will be obvious to see once you're driving east), with about a 5 minute hike up a non-existent trail.
Climb right in the main, enormous dihedral of the crag. You can stick right next to the left wall the entire way, or take a variation 2' to the right that can be climbed from the same anchor. The rock is cleaner than it looks....[more]Browse More Classics in CO