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Penstock Rock
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Castle Magic S 
Cement Overshoes S 
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Pumping Groundwater S 

Cement Overshoes 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Steve Schneider
Page Views: 348
Submitted By: 426 on Mar 26, 2007

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Description 

Left around the corner from DWP lies this slightly chossy gem.

Used to be kind of popular in a cult way but looks like it has fallen into the realm of the obscure...boulder out the bottom then wander to the post apocalyptic anchors...


Location 

Greenish grey face to the left of the pillar routes.


Protection 

Bolts and industrial fixed gear...



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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Feb 27, 2012
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Currently a sandbag with all the flying-creature fecal matter on the holds up high. The first four or five bolts protect some decently fun and techie moves, but the top section—after the big ledge rest—felt just plain dirty and awkward. What's more, in place of nice Rawls, you have to clip some tat that is girth-hitched off old rusty all-thread bolts from a bygone industrial era. And the top anchors? Horrid. Sun-bleached nastiness and stiff biners' await you. With some anchor-love, however, this climb might be as popular as its friends to the right. The crux—which I thought came at the top—seemed much less straightforward than the crux to Flashflood.

Do everyone a favor and donate to the anchor-replacement fund at Wilsons.