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Celestial Omnibus 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ned Harris
Page Views: 2,717
Submitted By: Dane Casterson on Feb 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Nearing the crux of
Celestial Omnibus (5.12-)

Description 

Fantastic. Climb up and out of the left side of the Bronco Bowl. Follow the the tufas and jugs to the anchors. Though there doesn't seem to be any 12 moves on it, the pump-factor due to the steepness is maddening. The second pitch is still an open project. Get out there and do it!


Protection 

8 draws to anchors.



Photos of Celestial Omnibus Slideshow Add Photo
Josh Merriam working the route.  Bout half way done.
Josh Merriam working the route. Bout half way don...
photo by kris french.
photo by kris french.
This is the view from the Bronco Bowl.  Traverses left then fires straight up.
This is the view from the Bronco Bowl. Traverses ...
Comments on Celestial Omnibus Add Comment
Show which comments
By yevquest
From: Southeast,US
Mar 24, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Great route, great position, fun crux followed by a huge jug...if only it was longer. Worth the hassle!

By Noah8000
From: Vail, CO
Feb 28, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This is one of the coolest routes. Anyone who is in the area, and climbs the grade, it's an absolute must to do this route! It's sort of short sadly. The first pitch is a sandbagged 11a with mono holds! Brilliant! the fixed rope in Bronco bowl needs to be replaced on the other hand.

By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 25, 2011

I am very surpised that this route does not get more attention than it does. Due to a lousy description of the climb I thought I would help some folk out headed that direction! First off, let me say that I have climbed at top spots all over the world and to date, this is the BEST route I have ever gotten on!!! It has graced the cover of many climbing magazines and been heavily photographed. I must have done 60 pitches on my recent trip to Portrero in February 2011 and this was "THE ONE". There is an 11a approach pitch that is a full 35 meter pitch just to get to base of Bronco Bowl. Pass the first set of anchors and continue up another 20 feet or so to another set of anchors at the huge ledge at the base of Bronco Bowl. Going to the second set of anchors is a real rope stretcher but just for the record you can rap from the second set of anchors directly out of the bowl and just barely make it to the block located at the base of the apporach pitch. MAKE sure you have a 70 meter rope, there is a knot tied in both ends, and that you lower exactly at the midpoint of the rope. This will save some time if your working the route. From the large ledge at the base of Bronco Bowl(which is large enough to accomodate several people and gear with multiple spots to anchor in), traverse left on a duel fixed line to a semi-hanging belay. As of Feb 2011, one of the fixed lines has a core shot and is in need of replacement. I would recommend keeeping your partner on belay as they traverse the fixed line to the belay station for Celstial Omnibus. There is a cool little hueco directly above the belay station to stash some water bottles, energy bars, etc. From the belay, traverse slightly left up the obvious tufa line next to the black streak. Use a couple of long runners for the first few bolts and feel the exposure! This traverse may have you gripped because the exposure is incredible. There is nothing but 120 feet of air below you. From here the line is pretty straight forward and goes straight up tufa's the entire way. This is tufa climbing at its best! There are alot of pinches and jugs pretty much the entire way. About half way up the climb the jugs briefly end and the crux is moving off a two handed sloper that you briefly have to match. All of the clips are easy to make, I felt like there was some pumpy moves just before you got to the next clip, although its clean air if you fall anywhere on the route. I was on my onsight attempt when I had a fair amount of rope out and a hold snapped off and sent me flying!! Just for the record, the hold did not change the diffculty of the route, as there are other good holds in the same area. About half way up just past the matching sloper crux you can get a decent shake out to the left on a massive jug rail. The last 15 feet is a shark fin tufa that's very thin and easier than it looks, if your not too pumped out! The fin is thick on the outside and thin on the inside creating the most bomber pinches for your climbing pleasure. AS the guidebook and description implies, this route is crazy pumpy and just holding on to the jugs is the crux of the route in my opinion. The description on Mountain Project says that it doesnt have any 5.12 moves on it, although I would disagree with the matching sloper in the middle. It is hard to move off this hold since your sooo pumped out. Overall, this route is BADASS!! Do it! Special note, when cleaning this climb, your gonna want to clip back into the rope when lowering to get all your draws and be careful near the bottom. A swing away from the wall with not enough momentum to get back to the wall will leave you dangling in space. And for the record, even with a 70 meter rope you CANNO"T lower to the ground. It is too high up and the overhang below Bronco Bowl is too severe. Also keep this in mind when falling. If you take a whip on the route, you will swing driectly back into your rope line. Grab it first try and latch on so your not left dangling.. This route is well botled and very safe, I am not trying to freak anyone out, just giving some good beta. Many people have been left dangling in space on the Outrage Wall and have needed to be rescued. Hope this info helps... BTW, if you like Tufa Climbing, Surf Bowl is also really sick and has alot of really fun 5.12 and 5.13 climbing, most of which is overhanging tufa climbing. Guppie(12b), Surfer Rosa(13a) and Nemo(13b) are all standouts directly next to each other. Celestial Omnnibus seemes to get sun most of the day until late afteroon when the sun then becomes blocked by The Dihedrals area and Time Wave Butrress... May be doable in the rain as well, although the approach pitch would be wet as well as the top of the route. Enjoy.........