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 ADVANCED
Upper Major Mass & Jungle Gym Tower
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angel's Crack T,TR 
Cedar Tree Wall T,TR 
Corner Crack T,TR 
Corner Crack Face T,TR 
Crypt Variation, The T,TR 
Crypt, The T 
Dances with FIBs T,TR 
End of the Line T,TR 
Faith, Hope, and Charity T,TR 
Hidden Wall T,TR 
Indecision T,TR 
Jolly Roger T,TR 
Jungle Gym T 
Jungle Gym East Face T 
Mary Jane T,TR 
Rosemary's Baby T,TR 
Split Decision TR 
Three Kings T,TR 
W.A.R T,TR 

Cedar Tree Wall 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 720
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Jun 11, 2001

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BETA PHOTO: Cedar Tree Wall follows either of the cracks adjac...

Description 

Cedar Tree Wall is a fine climb found on the upper band of the Major Mass just south of the Devil's Doorway formation. Climb up the broken up crack and ledges. Don't use the tree behind you. Swartling's book calls it 5.4, but I'd say 5.6.


Protection 

Standard Rack, some slings to sling the tree. Top rope setup is found by walking around the west side of the Devil's Doorway and setting up an anchor on the wall just south of the formation. To get to the base of the climb from the TR setup hike east along lower Devil's Doorway Trail, go up short set of steps just north of The Crypt (route 18). Once above steps turn right (east) and descend gully between the Major Mass and Minor Mass. Descend the gully about 20 yards and then turn right and climb through a saddle (4th class). Once through the saddle you'll be on the "upper-band ledge", a nice wide ledge used to access the upper band of the Major Mass (in Swartling's book this ledge is located above the area labeled "Angel's Traverse"). Hike west along the ledge about 150 feet until you're directly below the Devil's Doorway (you'll see it about 50 feet above you). Cedar Tree Wall is around the corner to the left of the wall you're facing. There is a tall tree at the base of the climb.



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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 17, 2004

Stick to the rh crack, takes good gear, agree with 5.6 rating (long reaches), would be 5.8 if the tree weren't there. Much better (and longer) than it looks in the photo.

By Tradoholic
Jul 25, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

The right crack is a great climb with good jams up top. Avoid use of the tree.

By Joe "Big Boi" Osterman
From: Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Mar 31, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Right hand crack, did not use tree, felt more like 5.7. Linked this with Bloody Finger for a great two pitch climb ending on top of the doorway.