The view from the south side of Looking Glass encompasses a huge vista of Pisgah National Forest. To the west you can see several large but low-angle slabs. This is Cedar Rock Mountain. In 1986 Charles Ivey "discovered" a relatively easy approach to the hidden western aspect of the mountain. This is Cedar Rock proper. This steep, intimidating chunk of granite is one of the best face climbing venues in the region. Being a west facing cliff, it is cool on summer mornings and warm on winter afternoons.
From Brevard, NC, follow US 64 west to Cathy's Creek Road on the right. Look for signs for Forest Service Camp Kuykendall. Follow Cathy's Creek for about 5.9 miles to an obvious car park on the right. Follow the trail for about a mile to Low Gap and the Art Loeb Trail intersection. Go straight for a quarter mile. At Butter Gap there is a junction of several trails. Go straight across to the unmarked trail which is an old logging road. If you are going up hill, you chose the wrong route. Back up and take the next one to the right. If you hit the shelter, back up and take the next trail to the left. Follow it to the rock.
Climb past the low bolt and then some gear to a high second bolt (actually on "Birthday Bash") just below a bulge. Continue up and slightly right into shallow groove past one more bolt. Continue up groove to easier ground that leads to a 2 bolt anchor at 150+ feet. ...[more]Browse More Classics in NC
Check out www.cedarrockguide.com for a copy of your "Cedar Rock and Satellite Crags", outlining 200+ climbs in this area. The book covers all 7 faces of Cedar in full detail, Victory Wall, Cathey's Creek, Pilot Rock, Fish Bowl Crag, and an abridged John Rock. You can order online or message me for a $23 copy. Enjoy!
+1 for a good guide book. I left the NC Select book at home yesterday and just brought this new one from Mike. It was more than what I needed to have a successful day in the area. If you plan to spend a good amount of time in the Pisgah area, this guide is a must.
No set rules. This is, with some exceptions, a ground-up crag in a wilderness setting. Bolts in close proximity to naturally protectable features are generally frowned upon. Stainless steel hardware only please. The Main Wall has been picked over pretty closely over the past 30 years, probably not too much opportunity for new routes there that wouldn't be considered a squeeze job.