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Cedar Rock

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Cedar Rock - Main Wall 
Cedar Rock - North 
South Side 

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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Cedar Rock 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 35.2535, -82.8003 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 32,936
Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Sean Cobourn on Aug 1, 2008
Forecast:
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Chance of a Thunderstorm
77° | 64°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
76° | 59°
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Clear
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Partly Cloudy
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A nice little route called cuttin' the rug. Jon l...

Description 

The view from the south side of Looking Glass encompasses a huge vista of Pisgah National Forest. To the west you can see several large but low-angle slabs. This is Cedar Rock Mountain. In 1986 Charles Ivey "discovered" a relatively easy approach to the hidden western aspect of the mountain. This is Cedar Rock proper. This steep, intimidating chunk of granite is one of the best face climbing venues in the region. Being a west facing cliff, it is cool on summer mornings and warm on winter afternoons.


Getting There 

From Brevard, NC, follow US 64 west to Cathy's Creek Road on the right. Look for signs for Forest Service Camp Kuykendall. Follow Cathy's Creek for about 5.9 miles to an obvious car park on the right. Follow the trail for about a mile to Low Gap and the Art Loeb Trail intersection. Go straight for a quarter mile. At Butter Gap there is a junction of several trails. Go straight across to the unmarked trail which is an old logging road. If you are going up hill, you chose the wrong route. Back up and take the next one to the right. If you hit the shelter, back up and take the next trail to the left. Follow it to the rock.


50 Total Routes


['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',22],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',2],['5.8',2],['5.9',6],['5.10',13],['5.11',20],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cedar Rock:
Oh! Mr. Friction   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   Cedar Rock - Main Wall
Angry Nomad   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   South Side
Darkness on the Edge   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Cedar Rock - North
Dandy Line   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Cedar Rock - North
Toads Are Us   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   Cedar Rock - Main Wall
Cedar Blossom   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 120'   Cedar Rock - Main Wall
Orangutan Flake   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Cedar Rock - Main Wall
Black Swan   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   Cedar Rock - North
Gay by Proxy   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Cedar Rock - North
Cedar Pie   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   Cedar Rock - Main Wall
Details at Ten   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Cedar Rock - Main Wall
Rawhide Arch   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   Cedar Rock - Main Wall
Caught Up in the Air   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   Cedar Rock - Main Wall
Petrified Cedar   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Cedar Rock - Main Wall
Wild Ginger Root   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   Cedar Rock - Main Wall
Smoke Hole Weiners   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 190'   Cedar Rock - Main Wall
Sibling Revelry   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Cedar Rock - Main Wall
I wanna be sedated   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Cedar Rock - Main Wall
Spirit Stick   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Cedar Rock - Main Wall
Pawing the Void   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 80'   Cedar Rock - Main Wall
Browse More Classics in Cedar Rock

Featured Route For Cedar Rock
Bruce Burgess on the FA. of Details at 10 1990.

Details at Ten 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b NC : Cedar Rock : Cedar Rock - Main Wall
Climb past the low bolt and then some gear to a high second bolt (actually on "Birthday Bash") just below a bulge. Continue up and slightly right into shallow groove past one more bolt. Continue up groove to easier ground that leads to a 2 bolt anchor at 150+ feet. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

Photos of Cedar Rock Slideshow Add Photo
When the second pitch begins to get Real on Passion & Warfare
When the second pitch begins to get Real on Passio...
blank faces are scary places
blank faces are scary places
Sean Cobourn on Caught Up In The Air  5.10, pitch 2 <br />photo by Thomas Kelley
Sean Cobourn on Caught Up In The Air 5.10, pitch ...
Mega's ruled!
Mega's ruled!
Caught Up In The Air- photo by Thomas Kelley
Caught Up In The Air- photo by Thomas Kelley
Cedar Guidebook
Cedar Guidebook
Comments on Cedar Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Reardon
Apr 16, 2013

Check out www.cedarrockguide.com for a copy of your "Cedar Rock and Satellite Crags", outlining 200+ climbs in this area. The book covers all 7 faces of Cedar in full detail, Victory Wall, Cathey's Creek, Pilot Rock, Fish Bowl Crag, and an abridged John Rock. You can order online or message me for a $23 copy. Enjoy!

By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
May 15, 2013

+1 for a good guide book. I left the NC Select book at home yesterday and just brought this new one from Mike. It was more than what I needed to have a successful day in the area. If you plan to spend a good amount of time in the Pisgah area, this guide is a must.

By William Turner
From: Carmel, Indiana
Nov 5, 2013

what are the rules on bolting here?

By Edward Medina
Administrator
From: Brighton, CO
Nov 7, 2013

No set rules. This is, with some exceptions, a ground-up crag in a wilderness setting. Bolts in close proximity to naturally protectable features are generally frowned upon. Stainless steel hardware only please. The Main Wall has been picked over pretty closely over the past 30 years, probably not too much opportunity for new routes there that wouldn't be considered a squeeze job.