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Cedar Rock - North

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Banana Peel  T 
Bayne's Corner T 
Black Swan T 
Cut In The Rug T 
Dandy Line T 
Darkness on the Edge T 
Fancy Feat T 
Flight of The Raven T 
Gay by Proxy T,S 
Invasive Species T 
Operant Conditioning T,S 
Rain Dance T 
Un Named T 
Where the Red Ferns Grow T 

Cedar Rock - North  

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Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Edward Medina on Apr 9, 2013
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This north facing crag has been known to ice-climbing locals for quite a while. There are prominent water flows that may interfere with climbing some of the classic features. But when the weather warms and the rains slow down, this is a premier Southern Blue Ridge destination. Recently 'rediscovered' this cliff has seen a spate of new development by the likes of Sean Cobourn, Stephen Scoff, and Nathan Brown.

Getting There 

At the Butter Gap intersection take the rising trail on your left. You will soon descend into a saddle. From here head along a faintly marked climbers trail on your left until you reach your destination.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.8 miles from here

14 Total Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cedar Rock - North:
Darkness on the Edge   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Dandy Line   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Black Swan   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   
Operant Conditioning   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 310'   
Gay by Proxy   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in Cedar Rock - North

Featured Route For Cedar Rock - North
Pitch one in late afternoon light.

Fancy Feat 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  NC : Cedar Rock : Cedar Rock - North
This is a great line with a wide variety of climbing that is somewhat overshadowed by the crack of "Cut In The Rug" just to the left. Both routes are very worthwhile.P-1Climb to a ledge and wander up a brief section of blocky (hollow) terrain to a line of bolts. Climb past 3 bolts to an optional #0 TCU (hidden a couple feet above bolt). Continue up past a #1 TCU slot to the 4th bolt. Make bouldery eyebrow moves to gain a horizontal rail (small cam here for traverse)and then move righ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

Photos of Cedar Rock - North Slideshow Add Photo
Afternoon sun on the north side. Looking up from the P-1 anchors of "Fancy Feat".
Afternoon sun on the north side. Looking up from t...
RONA- pitch one
RONA- pitch one
Topo of routes from Native Dance to Groove Thang.  This is an excellent steep wall of face climbing.
BETA PHOTO: Topo of routes from Native Dance to Groove Thang. ...
FA of one of those routes under the roof
FA of one of those routes under the roof
Pitch Two- Route of Northern Aggression <br />Sean Cobourn and Brian Gulden <br />photo by Lauren James
Pitch Two- Route of Northern Aggression
Sean Cobou...

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By nbrown
From: western NC
Mar 18, 2014
The hike in to the north face just got a whole lot easier due to some much-needed trail re-working. This wall gets a lot of afternoon sun this time of year, so go get you some!