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Cedar City 


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Submitted By: EricD on Aug 30, 2006

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Jared doing the crux of the Cave Route.

Description 

Cedar City is a smallish town in southern Utah with a wide variety of rock types. Limestone in Cedar Canyon, welded tuff of the Overlook, and conglomerate similar to Maple Canyon are enough to keep anyone busy for a while. Routes range from 5.6 to 5.14. The higher elevation at some areas allow for nice temperatures in the summer. Some areas are inaccessible in the winter due to high snow levels.


Getting There 

Cedar City is about 45 minutes north of St. George on I-15. There are some good places to eat, The Pastry Pub being one of the favorites for sandwiches and smoothies. Not much of a nightlife (it is in Utah, remember), but it is a college town, so you never know.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cedar City:
Cedarcicle   WI5-6     Ice, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Cedar City Ice : Cedar Canyon
Sand cuts area   WI3-4     Ice, 1 pitch, 60 feet, Grade II   Cedar City Ice : Cedar Canyon
Asdown Gorge flows   WI4-5     Ice, 1 pitch, Grade II   Cedar City Ice : Cedar Canyon
Camp Creek   WI4+     Ice, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Cedar City Ice : I-15 flows
Hidden Haven   WI4     Ice, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II   Cedar City Ice : Parowan Canyon
Carmel Cubes   WI5-6     Ice, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Cedar City Ice : Cedar Canyon
Split Pea   V1     Boulder, 14 feet   Three Peaks
Thunderbird   V4 R     TR, Boulder, 30 feet   Three Peaks
Open For Business   V7     Boulder   Cedar Slide Bouldering : Flannigan Boulder
Decappaccino Right   5.8 PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 35 feet   Three Peaks
Dr. Diaper   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet   The Overlook : The Starting Block
The Adventure Route   5.9+     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Cedar Canyon : Rappel wall area
Psychoslabaddict   5.9+     Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet   Cedar Canyon : Psychoslab a.k.a 10 mile w...
Crunch Boy   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Pocket Rocks
Willie the Pimp   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   The Overlook : The Starting Block
Angering the Cheese Gods   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 35 feet   The Overlook : The Starting Block
Mustache Mayhem   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Pocket Rocks
La Santa Muerta   5.11a/b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet   Cedar Canyon : Graveside Matter Wall
Howard Hughes   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   The Overlook : The Starting Block
Too Much Cock Not Enough Lycra   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet   Cedar Canyon : Graveside Matter Wall
Browse More Classics in Cedar City

Featured Route For Cedar City
Beta photo- To Much Cock Not Enough Lycra

Too Much Cock Not Enough Lycra 5.12a  UT : Cedar City : ... : Graveside Matter Wall
Commonly know as "Too much chalk not enough lycra". Route starts on a strange and surprisingly delicate traverse through two bolts. You then move straight up the face. The crux of the route is found on the bulge right at the beginning. Once you move over the bulge you continue up a beautiful vertical face on edges with a pocket or two thrown in the mix. finishes with a short slab run to the chains. One of the best routes for the grade in Cedar Canyon....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


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By Trent Bradford
From: San Antonio, TX
Jan 30, 2010

There are at least two guidebooks for the Cedar City area. "Metal in Your Head" (Jack Tackle) is hard to find for purchase, but there are two copies at the SUU library, one available for checkout. It covers Cedar Canyon and building-bouldering in town.

I can't remember the name of the guidebook I used to use. It was available at the mountain shop in Cedar before it closed down; I can't find it now. It is thicker and more comprehensive than "Metal in Your Head." Besides Cedar Canyon, it covers areas all around Cedar City, including the Three Peaks area. If anyone has a copy or knows the title and author, please let me know.

By Chadwick Dixon
From: Crested Butte, CO
Feb 10, 2012

Passed thru the area last fall and was hoping to visit for the ice around Cedar City. Looks like Highway 14 up the canyon is closed. Is this closed every winter or just this year due to a slide? What kind of approach time to hit the ashdown flows? Any info appreciated.

By Jared R
Apr 6, 2012

The road is usually open all year,however, there was a huge landslide this fall that took out about 1500' of the road and they are currently removing dirt and repairing/rebuilding the road.