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This route is named after my grandmother. She is 91 years old and going strong. I am pretty sure if she started climbing tomorrow she would flash it by Friday and down rate it to 12a.
Pitch One 12c: 70ft
Start to the left of the pendulum tree. Clip a high bolt and do a boulder problem. Then place some gear and do another boulder problem to easier climbing and belay at a crack or at the tree.
Pitch Two 13d: 100ft
Free climb Topless Tellers (A4). The corner looks easy but is ridiculously hard. At the top of the corner make a spooky exit move, clip a new bolt, then make a puzzling traverse/dyno left into Mines of Moria (A2). Launch into a hard and scary boulder problem with big fall potential (only clipping the good bolt). Finish with awesome and exposed climbing to the top.
Pitch one starts just left of the pendulum tree. Pitch two climbs Topless Tellers into Mines of Moria.
Pitch one requires a couple of cams and a nut. For pitch two, you need a blue and orange TCU and maybe a nut or green alien for the top.
Conway on the holdless corner.
Conway starting the runout crux.
Conway taking the shorter fall off the crux.
Jay Conway whips off Cecile. Photo by Jay Knower.
|By Ladd Raine|
From: Plymouth, NH
Sep 1, 2008
|By Dave Karl|
Sep 5, 2008
Long live TRAD! Cathedral is not climbed out because bolts are not placed everywhere and adventure is still requireed. Nice job Jay.
|By Paul Campbell|
From: Sussex, WI
Sep 23, 2008
Looks like an insanely good line. Nice work!
|By Cory B|
Sep 28, 2008
Jay...It went?? Congrats!!
|By jason conway|
Sep 30, 2008
Thanks for the comments guys. It did go but after many many days of figuring, whimpering, and chickening out.
Certainly a memorable route for me!