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This is a great, unique Gunks route that uses chimney, hand and off-width crack techniques as well as a little face climbing. Climb the obvious crack in the left facing corner and traverse under a big roof to the left and over the nose/flake. Pass the huge ring bolt and walk off the Uberfall or set up an anchor on gear to toprope.
Just past the Uberfall and about 50 to the right of Ken's Crack. Start in the short chimney in the large left facing corner.
Gear up to #5 Camalot needed. No anchors at top, you must build your own or walk off left and down the Uberfall Descent.
BETA PHOTO: Guillaume Frechette on CC route. The screamer is c...
From: Wayne, PA
Jul 29, 2008
I found this to ba a little spicy at the flake. Well actually, it begins before the flake, at the traverse. I think it's a height issue, my fingertips barely reached the flake.
|By Tim Schafstall|
From: Newark, DE
Oct 2, 2008
This is a really fun route with a cool variety of moves. The crack down low seemed harder than it looked and the roof seemed easier. Go figure. Definitely worth doing, but seemed hard for the grade to me.
Apr 10, 2012
I've never had anything bigger than a #3 camalot on this one, and use the giant ring bolt for a tr. Seems very solid last I checked. Good way finish to the day, and lets you TR the 5.10ish face climbs next to it...
Apr 8, 2013
For those interested, there are two pieces of fixed pro in addition to the giant ring: a piton about a third of the way up when the crack begins to narrow from offwidth, and a bolt on the face to the left of the nose. You have to step up to clip the bolt but it will protect the burly layback moves to the finish.
I agree with Brian, we protected the whole climb with nothing bigger than a gold C4 (#2). The traverse protects okay with small gear, a little fiddly and balancey to place but definitely there.