WI3+ M3 R
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|Type: ||Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 2 pitches, 350 feet|
|Consensus: ||WI3+ M3 [details]|
|FA: ||Nick Kuhn, Tim Judkins, Matt Ledges, Leo Paik 2004|
|Season: ||fall, winter|
|Submitted By: ||Leo Paik on Nov 21, 2004|
Nick Leading P1 of Caveat Emptor. 11/21/04
This is a moderate and moderately-spicy 2 pitch line of a broad bit of ice with a series of ice steps with thin top outs only a short distance from the main trail. Multiple variations are possible. Expect some runouts of snow on rock slabs to top out. Nice to combine with other climbs in the area, given the approach.
Find this moderate but spicy line near the upper end of Lone Pine Lake (6 miles from the trailhead), on the NW aspect of Mt Craig, approximately 15-20 min up valley from the Gray Jay group camp site. Though the ice is a stone's throw from the trail itself, this last bit off trail can require a 15 minute wallow through deep snow.
P1 Various lines are possible, although a belay on the right may be more protected. 60m to base of vertical stretch, WI3. You can move right to trees to belay; however, this will require an extra belay somewhere above, less ideal.
P2 45m on thin, funky ice over a series of steps to snow on rock slab to trees.
To descend, Rap 63m off large tree with 2 slings, 2 rings to trees on a lower-angle snow patch with trees. Rap 45m to base.
P.S. Thanks Jaclyn, 7, for letting me go climb it.
8-10 screws, include a few 13 cms. A big nut, medium cam, or hex might be useful near the top.
BETA PHOTO: Caveat Emptor from trail 11/6/04