Cave  WI2-3

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Type:  Trad, Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  WI2-3 [details] FA:  Richard Rossiter Season:  cold, wet years Submitted By:  Leo Paik on Mar 7, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Cave.

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Description 

This ice flow may have a real name. If so, please post. It seemed worth entering this as distinct sections for a few more details.

This small, ice crag is split into 2 sides. The left side is shorter and probably could accomodate up to 2 parties, but it might be tight. Overall, the ice is thinner on this side. It is never vertical, but the thinner ice may not be thick enough for stubbies up the center.

Starting up the corner right of the ice cave and moving up the thin ice seemed the most interesting (WI4-?). Bring stubbies and #1 and/or #2 Camalots for this variation. Going up the ice corner and moving right will get you into thin ice (maybe stubbies, depending on conditions). Going straight up the ice corner into the bushes leaves you jungle climbing without ice on the upper half (WI3 R). Going far left seemed to be the easiest.

The ice can be a bit funky as it can be much colder here than at the trailhead.

Move back from the ice to belay or belay inside the ice cave.

Descent: you can rappel (~50-60') off either of a two trees with slings & rap rings either right above the ice cave or on the left side of this flow or scramble off to the left.

Location 

You can actually see this from Jewel Lake, perhaps 2 o'clock when facing Black Lake. It has a slight yellow tint to the ice down the obvious drainage off Thatchtop. Richard's directions were great. You may be able to ski to within 100' of the ice. ~3 1/4 miles. ~900' vertical gain. ~1.5 h approach.

Protection 

Ice screws. Maybe #1 and/or #2 Camalots to do the rightmost line.

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Perhaps the best line?