Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Cave Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bitter Table for One S 
Broken Dreams S 
Divorce Therapy S 
Eman saves Tman S 
Hornass Nest S 
Lords of Karma S 
Manly Woman S 
Matterhorness S 
Meat Gazer S 
Pali Gap S 
Pissed off Mofo S 
Shadows of the Mind S 
T and T S 
Your Flesh is Weak S 

Cave Wall  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,365'
Location: 32.39994, -110.71589 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,572
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Antoine Horness on Aug 10, 2008
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Tony Horness soloing Matterhorness at the roof!!

UPDATE 09/23/11* Warning: Bolt and/or hangers missing. Bolts and/or rock on the far right hand side of this wall may be of questionable integrity. Bolts reportedly pulled on Pali Gap and adjacent routes. Check back for further updates from the FA. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This area has 15 sport routes that are mostly moderates from 5.6 to 5.10. The wall has pumpier climbs ranging from 5.6 to 5.10 with morning sun and shade after 2pm. Most of the climbs have a ledge half way up. The area was found by Tony Lusk and Tony Horness on a day where Tony H's tips were too sore to climb. Andy Tretiakoff helped develop the area as well.

The area has a cave on the south end of the Cave Wall that can provide shelter from sun and rain and has a sign in register with laminated route guide. The view from the top of the crag encompasses the valley below Mt. Bigelow with Barnum Rock and Ridgeline due west while looking south to Rose Canyon and Munchkinland.

Getting There 

Take Mt. Lemmon highway to Organization Ridge rd at milepost 20. Turn south and park at Palisades trailhead parking, walk 50' south to drainage on east side, go uphill on a contour line to large black stump, follow cairns east then south to top of Cave Wall - 15-20 minutes. Access Cave Wall from north side and the other walls from south end marked with cairns.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.2 miles from here

14 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',5],['5.10',5],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cave Wall:
Divorce Therapy   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Shadows of the Mind   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Pissed off Mofo   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Hornass Nest   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Matterhorness   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Browse More Classics in Cave Wall

Featured Route For Cave Wall
Me leading Pali Gap.

Pali Gap 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Cave Wall
UPDATE 09/23/11* Warning: Bolt and/or hangers missing. Bolts and/or rock on the far right hand side of this wall may be of questionable integrity. Bolts reportedly pulled on Pali Gap and adjacent routes. Check back for further updates from the FA.This route is the first route on the north side of the Cave Wall - Bulgy warm up B/C...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Photos of Cave Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Andy Tretiakoff and Tony Lusk in the Cave
Andy Tretiakoff and Tony Lusk in the Cave
Cave Wall route listing that corresponds to the topo
BETA PHOTO: Cave Wall route listing that corresponds to the to...
Map to the area
BETA PHOTO: Map to the area
Outcroppings - Cave wall photo with the Tall wall on the left side
Outcroppings - Cave wall photo with the Tall wall ...
Nice shot of the right 1/3 of cave wall from Broken Dreams on left to Pali Gap on right. The rope is running up Divorce Therapy.
BETA PHOTO: Nice shot of the right 1/3 of cave wall from Broke...
Cave Crag Wall
BETA PHOTO: Cave Crag Wall
Tony Horness with Kiara the crag dog on top of the Cave next to the top of the Tall wall
Tony Horness with Kiara the crag dog on top of the...
View of Middle Earth and the now Famed Helmet on the hike in to the Outcropping's. If you look hard enough you might see John Baker hanging upside down in the shade on the Helmet on the right side of the photo.
View of Middle Earth and the now Famed Helmet on t...
Nice shot of the right 1/3 of cave wall from Your Flash Is Weak on left to Pali Gap on right. The rope is running up Divorce Therapy.
BETA PHOTO: Nice shot of the right 1/3 of cave wall from Your ...

Comments on Cave Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 7, 2013
By Jimbo
Aug 23, 2008
Just went out and did a dozen or so routes on the three formations. I must say the climbing was fun, the routes were varied and I feel this area is a great addition to the Tucson climbing scene.
Kudos to Tony and the crew for taking the time, and spending the money to add a bunch of great new routes for moderate sport climbers.
This is the place to go if you want introduce your neophyte friends and family to climbing.
I intend to do just that in the near future.
Also has a very pleasant hike in.
By JayCap
Sep 1, 2008
Don't turn up the first drainage and start looking for black stumps - there are dozens of them. It's about 65 paces (not 50') south from the parking area to the trail. It's marked with a cairn, and the black stump is visible up the hill, also with a cairn clearly visible on top. The trail is abundantly marked all the way to the crag.
By James Mac
Sep 5, 2008
If the open project on the Cave wall hasn't been sent, I got the FA on 9/3/08. Didn't think it was that bad, around 5.10/5.11 with one 10 foot section that maybe 5.12 after the ledge. If anyone knows if this has been sent or not let me know and if it hasn't, I'll think of a name for it.
By Antoine Horness
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 6, 2008
Dave Weeks did the route on TR with no falls and no hangs 6 months ago. If you want to bolt it and lead it for the FA be my guest and come up with a name. I agree with you on your analysis of the route and the crux is definitely getting off the ledge. I hope you enjoyed the area and it was a blast to put up.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 24, 2009
Climbed here yesterday in Tee shirts. They are doing a bunch of logging so you will not find the stump. If you just head left from the palisades trail head and skirt around the right side of the knoll and continue east you should eventually find some cairns as you work your way through the Boyscout camp.

Jimbo and I did all the climbs except the project and the last two 5.6 routes. It was a fun if not hard on the feet kind of day. We thought that all of the routes were worth doing if you were there and that Matterhorness was the best of the crag and should not be missed. I would give all of them one star and with Materhorness getting two. I would almost give it three but I don't think it quite compares with some of the other 3 star routes on the mountain but it is close.

Nice area. Two thumbs up to the folks that worked so hard on it.
By tbrain
Mar 31, 2009
Had our vehicle locked-in on the road leading to the approach (presumably by the forest service) 28 Mar 09. Sign on the locked gate clearly indicated it was to remain open after March 1. Anyone else had any problems for access to The Druid or The Outcroppings?
By Antoine Horness
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 20, 2009
Tony Lusk and his son fixed the trail to the area last weekend. The gate was open as well and a few of us had a great climbing day last Saturday.
By Mike Senigo
From: Tucson, AZ
May 6, 2009
Tony and son, thanks for fixing the trail, looks great! On another note, there are no chains on the top of Manly Woman and Eman/Tman, just two bolts. Make sure to look up when looking for them.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 7, 2010
a fun spot for sure and a great place for moderates, which are seriously lacking on the mountain right now.

i do want to say though that i felt the grades were slightly inflated. please, let's try to keep grade creep under control so mount lemmon doesn't end up like red rock or queen creek.

also, although there are lots of bolts on each route and they are for the most part very safe, some of the bolts seem hard to clip so be sure you're very solid at the grade before getting on any of these climbs.

forgive me for the criticisms--i do actually think this crag is a fun and much-needed addition to the mountain. i'll almost certainly return this season.
By AmyH
May 30, 2011
Beware the chains on Lords of Karma are missing, but it's easy enough to borrow from Pali Gap (routes 1 & 2), although the bolt on the right anchor was loose and needs tightening.
By Antoine Horness
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 23, 2011
I just got a call that there are some loose bolts on Pali Gap and Lords of Karma. DO NOT CLIMB ON THESE 2 ROUTES UNTIL I GET THIS FIXED.

I am going to go to the routes tomorrow and will assess what needs to be done. I will probably pull all of the hangers off tomorrow.
By Antoine Horness
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 25, 2011
The anchors and hangers have been pulled from Lords of Karma and Pali Gap due to a report from a climber of loose bolts. Yesterday, I checked all of the anchors, hangers and bolts by shock loading them with a Grigri backup and could find no loose bolts. Some of the hangers and one of the anchors needed routine tightening. I don't think there is anything wrong but shut down the routes and pulled the anchors and hangers
By Kyle O
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 7, 2013
Looked like the anchors are still missing on the top of Lords of Karma and Pali Gap as of yesterday (10/6/13)