The Cave Routes can best be described as 4 routes of overhung powerful pumpy fun. There are no easy routes on the Cave routes, with all routes ranging from .11d - .12b.
These routes are always in the shade, being in a cave.
All routes share a common anchor some 30 feet off the ground. You can actually walk off of some of these routes, though an interesting mantle move into some mossy rock would be required, so lowering or rappelling off the top anchor is probably the best bet.
Approach time: 10 - 15 minutes.
From the point where Shell Road turns to dirt, the trailhead to The Welcome Wall, The Pit, Cave Wall, Ort Wall and Mid Wall is 1.2 miles further down road. There is a very steep turnaround on the left side of the road, but better parking can be had another few hundred yards past the trailhead. _BR_You'll know you're on the right trail when you see a telephone pole with the numbers 40 with an arrow to the left and 41 with an arrow to the right spray-painted on it just to the right of the trail (its about 25 yards from the road, and you won't be able to tell until you get closer). _BR_Once you're on the correct trail, it gets pretty simple. Follow the trail (watch out for poison oak) until it reaches a large talus field. Continue diagnally up and left as you're looking uphill on the talus, and soon you'll be beneath the Welcome Wall.
From the Welcome Wall, simply continue left and down another 2 minutes on the trail. You'll go down a steep trail between some rocks, and you fill find the Ort Wall on your left, The Grotto to the right, and The Cave Routes ahead and left.
2 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Cave Routes
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cave Routes:
Dwarf Toss 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Featured Route For Cave Routes
Grotto Monkey 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a CA
: Sonora Pass (Hwy 108)
: ... : Cave Routes
This is the leftmost route of the four Cave Route climbs, and heads straight up the face of the cave to the top anchor. Stick clipping the first bolt is probably a good idea, as the not so soft talus floor of The Cave probably isn't very nice to land in.Head up using all your strength through pumpy overhanging reachy moves using large jugs and anything else that helps. You will probably hate yourself for top roping any Cave Wall route, as it's overhung enough to make getting yourself back on the...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
News and Events For Cave Routes
|By Aron Quiter|
From: Oakland, CA
Oct 1, 2002
Note that my GPS wouldn't work underneath in the Grotto, so this is the best reading I could get.