Type: Boulder, 10 ft (3 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,200 total · 11/month
Shared By: Mathias on Jul 5, 2015
Admins: James Schroeder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This route is in one of the books I have and is down as a V2. If you look at the other two route on the rock which are a V5 and a V0, it starts mid way between them on the very obvious horizontal, chalk covered ledgy jug.

Start with hands on the big, obvious jug and feet wherever you like (the two huecos down to the right were my preference). Using you preferred combination of the start hold and the chalked holds to either side of it, along with a right heel hook or any other feet you can get, find a way to reach the chicken head on the out side of the cave (one of the start holds for the V0 problem). Find the other start hold for the V0 and then work you way out and up the overhanging point.

I've seen this done statically but I ended up doing it dynamically and with a heel hook to the big incut on the right outside edge (close to the right chalked hold, which I did not use at all). It's a fun but physically demanding problem.

Location Suggest change

Cave Rock is located just up the hill from Split Boulder and maybe 50 yards North of Scenic Rock... I think.

Protection Suggest change

Definitely a pad for the one (or in my case, many) failed dynos that will fling you to the ground at the mouth of the cave.

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