Cave Route 5.9+
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Dylan Demyanek |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Demyanek on Jun 21, 2012 |
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The route climbs up the left side of the cave-like...
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Southeast Reservoir was closed and is no.
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Description From the start hold 10 feet inside the cave on the left, follow the vertical to overhanging crack/flake system for about 20 feet to a large jug. Using an undercling on the roof, make a reach to a slopey hold and stem up the remaining 10 feet of crack to the top. ***DO NOT USE THE CHOCKSTONES IN THE CRACK.*** They are quite insecure and likely to fall out if used.
For full value on this route, do not use the east side of the cave wall for chimneying/stemming, but stay exclusively to the western overhanging wall until you reach the final crack section.
Location To find this route, locate the large off-width crack about 50 feet to the south of the roof route. From here, walk around the pillar until you reach a cave-like formation. The start of the route is about 10 feet inside the cave on the left hand side. The start hold is a right hand jug about 7 feet off the ground.
Protection This route is possible to top rope by putting two or three slings around the large, pedestal-style, rock formation on top of the large pillar. Alternatively, there is opportunity for gear placement throughout the entire route, and it would be possible to climb traditionally.
By Demyanek
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 21, 2012
| This route, even if somewhat contrived, has some pretty cool moves and is the only consistently overhanging route at Horsetooth I have climbed. |
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