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Duncan's Ridge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Apples T,TR 
Bird Shit Avenue T,TR 
Broken Crack T,TR 
Cave Route T,TR 
Cheeseburger in Paradise S,TR 
Conglomerate Face TR 
Corner Climb T,TR 
Crackmard T 
Dihedral Route T,TR 
Face Route T,TR 
Kahlua Roof 
Liberty's Last Stand TR 
Lichen Roof TR 
Northern Unnamed T,TR 
Nose, The T 
Oranges S,TR 
Out of the Black S 
Purdy Dirty TR 
Roof Route T,TR 
South Corner T,TR 
South OW aka Front Crack T 
Unnamed Corner T,TR 
Unnamed Overhang TR 
Unnamed Top Rope Section T,TR 
Wide Side, The T,TR 
Wishbone Crack T,TR 

Cave Route 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dylan Demyanek
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,175
Submitted By: Demyanek on Jun 21, 2012

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The opening moves.


From the start hold 10 feet inside the cave on the left, follow the vertical to overhanging crack/flake system for about 20 feet to a large jug. Using an undercling on the roof, make a reach to a slopey hold and stem up the remaining 10 feet of crack to the top. ***DO NOT USE THE CHOCKSTONES IN THE CRACK.*** They are quite insecure and likely to fall out if used.

For full value on this route, do not use the east side of the cave wall for chimneying/stemming, but stay exclusively to the western overhanging wall until you reach the final crack section.


To find this route, locate the large off-width crack about 50 feet to the south of the roof route. From here, walk around the pillar until you reach a cave-like formation. The start of the route is about 10 feet inside the cave on the left hand side. The start hold is a right hand jug about 7 feet off the ground.


This route is possible to top rope by putting two or three slings around the large, pedestal-style, rock formation on top of the large pillar. Alternatively, there is opportunity for gear placement throughout the entire route, and it would be possible to climb traditionally.

Eds. Per Jarrod Keller, this now has bolted anchors.

Photos of Cave Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The route climbs up the left side of the cave-like...
The route climbs up the left side of the cave-like...

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